Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people

Did a search but didn't find what I was exactly looking for.

I've hit 100,00km on my n/a r34 25gt so its time for a major service. Since I haven't had any experience myself I wanted to get it done by a pro. I was given a quote of $1100 by a jap import mechanic down my way, is this a normal price? I didn't get full details but that includes new spark plugs, timing belt, and im assuming bearings and seals. As well as the standard service like dropping oil, coolant etc.

What should I be paying for a major service including parts?

Also found this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...or+service+cost so I was thinking of buying the parts myself to save money and just get the mechanic to do the install.

Cheers

Dom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289980-rb25de-100000km-major-service-cost/
Share on other sites

Assuming they provide quality items (genuine or reputable aftermarket brand) it sounds fair.

Ensure they use quality fluids/oils as well, because there is no point of having good parts without good fluids/oils to protect them.

Also keep around $700 aside because sooner or later your ignition coils will start to give trouble (most R34s face this issue around 100,000km).

If you don't have experience I'd say it is good insurance - especially if you start factoring in the hassle of breakdowns, towing, cost of fixing engine damage and the days you will not have a car it will easily cost much more than $1100.

thanks for the replies

Yeah he definitely uses top quality oils and fluids, one of those mechanics who cringes at the thought of people putting cheap shit into their imports.

I'll call up to see if it includes a water pump, otherwise might see if i can supply parts instead. Considering i'm putting in about $550 worth of parts, he'd be charging $550 for labour + the normal service items like fluids...so maybe it isn't so unreasonable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Both windows operate normally while the engine is running but start to sag as soon as I switch off.  Does anyone know of reasonably priced replacements or other brands that will fit?
    • Actually PowerFC is probably the easiest to get basic data from, it comes with a hand controller and display so you don't need to remember to pack a laptop every time you drive. It also has a PC based viewing/logging option if required. Nissan used consult on these because back in the mid 80s, ODB was just a glint in a standard's body's eyes.  They switched to OBD shape around 2000 (my 2001 Cima had OBD shaped but not OBD compliant port) With the standard ECU there is a cable and software available to give basic data too, I think it is called Nissan Data Scan or s
    • Given by the sheer number of questions about offset, absolutely not. If you had the information formatted this way: Space from R34 GTT hub to outer arch = 100mm Space from R34 GTT inner hub to nearest suspension arm = 90mm. (making this up) Buying a wheel that was advertised as Enkei RPZ5 Diameter 18in Width 9 Distance to arch = 84mm Distance to suspension arm = 76mm 100% of people would know instantly if it fits. They would absolutely also know instantly how close it fits too, and no questions would need to be asked. You would know you would have 16mm from the guard and 14mm from the suspension arm.
    • Ah ok, for example for the apexi ecu I heard that it's pretty limited with the information it can give you. Also not sure why Nissan used the consult port over the obd2, what the idea there was.
    • Diagnosing with and without is mostly the same. You need to know, as Duncan asked, and what conditions. Car hot, cold, idling, driving, if while driving what rpms, is when you're varying, or is it when held constant.   From there it's understanding what can be causing it. Starting with pretending all of the sensors are correct. Which means if it's going rich, why would it be thinking more air is going in than it is, and under what conditions. So things like if only when under boost, it could be be a loose intake piping joint. It's just understanding the system, and understanding when/how the problem occurs, and then if it's only occuring in specific scenarios, what can be causing it.   ECU specifically, if it's aftermarket, it'll have software you can use, for the Skylines on factory ECU, there is Nissan Consult you can use. Most ECUs have a way to get data from them.
×
×
  • Create New...