Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, was wondering if there is anyone on the gold coast who has replaced manifold studs before and wants to make some extra cash?..

my machanic has told me there are to broken studs at the rear of the manifold near the turbo.

He said it was the cause of the heated air i can see coming out and the small oil leak,

while im here,

does this normaly cause a slow oil leak and the oil preasure to drop on my gauge when im of the pedal?.

Anyways, i can take most of everything of in the way of doing this job to make it quicker, but im not to confident with the studs and removing the manifold and everything off it, and the machanic wants around $600-$700.

im in the varsity lakes area, or i can drive to were every. would $300 or so be enough for someone to do this? thanx..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290000-broken-exhaust-manifold-studs/
Share on other sites

The oil leak is what causes the gasket to fail.

It's coming from the rocker cover gasket and has nothing to do with the pressure drop.

$300 will cover the cost of the studs and the cost to remove the studs but you'll still have to find someone willing to remove the turbo an manifold. $600 is normal for that job

The gasket costs $110, the studs and nuts are $50, turbo gaskets are $70 and you are looking at 4 hours labour plus whatever time to extract the broken studs. It's not an easy job and you will be very lucky to find someone willing to do it for $300. And if you do find someone, it is highly likely it will be a learning curve for the both of you.

I have done the job before on a 33. Its not overly difficult just time consuming.

the broken studs are no issue, a good drill steady hand and a set of rigid screw extractors have it done in no time.

but you will want to replace all the gaskets and all of the exhaust studs, also you will need a bit of coolant too for the bit you lose when removing the turbo.

I would put my hand up to do it, but im not able to for the next 2 weekends as i am very busy. If your still stuck after that give me a shout.

I recently completed this job and man its tough. I also had never done it before so was a huge learning curve for me also, saved myself over a thousand dollars too but lost a little blood sweat n tears also. keep in mind if it has never come off the car before there are hidden traps like split hoses and things breaking while taking everything apart.

The oil leak is what causes the gasket to fail.

It's coming from the rocker cover gasket and has nothing to do with the pressure drop.

$300 will cover the cost of the studs and the cost to remove the studs but you'll still have to find someone willing to remove the turbo an manifold. $600 is normal for that job

The gasket costs $110, the studs and nuts are $50, turbo gaskets are $70 and you are looking at 4 hours labour plus whatever time to extract the broken studs. It's not an easy job and you will be very lucky to find someone willing to do it for $300. And if you do find someone, it is highly likely it will be a learning curve for the both of you.

hey nice,, thanx alot for the info, its good to know the oil is from there.. any idea what why my oil presure drops when i slow down and down to half way and some times less when in netrual.. thanx again for the info

I recently completed this job and man its tough. I also had never done it before so was a huge learning curve for me also, saved myself over a thousand dollars too but lost a little blood sweat n tears also. keep in mind if it has never come off the car before there are hidden traps like split hoses and things breaking while taking everything apart.

damn, nice save, the turbo has been off before when i had a leaking gasket, so at least that should come off :D... thanx for the advice hey, i was going to try it, but i think i wont, tryed alot of things on the car but ill stop on this one and get someone or a machanic to do it :).. thanx

hey nice,, thanx alot for the info, its good to know the oil is from there.. any idea what why my oil presure drops when i slow down and down to half way and some times less when in netrual.. thanx again for the info

Your oil pressure follows revs. It is supposed to be on the 2 at idle and above 4 when over 3000rpm.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
    • Can also confirm these work a treat for most balljoints and bushes. If you have access to a big rattle gun, they make the job so much easier and quicker, compared to using a socket wrench or shifter on the c-clamp 👍
    • Its sort of street but got used for circuit sprints on account of I never drive it on the road because I dont have the time to spare. So it usage was sits around for months at a time then gets driven either 50 or 250 kms to the track followed by 20 laps followed by 50 or 250kms home followed by stuck in the shed until next time. So yeah neither fish nor fowl. Just dont want to break it on the track as a preference. Hence the fairly short sensor/mod list. Probably more worried about it pinging itself to destruction more so than anything oil related.
×
×
  • Create New...