Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I recently got my SAFC II installed & tuned for my auto R33 GTS-T with the following support mods:

-3" turbo back exhaust with high flow CAT

-Apexi POD

-R34 GTT SMIC

-Turbosmart boost controller set at 10PSI

Car made ~240rwhp

On the way back yesterday & driving to uni today I noticed that the auto box's "shift points" have moved lower compared to b4 & its behavior have changed compared to b4.

B4 the "min speed" at which gear changes occur were at ~25, 50 & 70km/h, now the gear changes will happen at 20, 40 & 60km/h & the box also seems to be much "willing" to move up to overdrive as soon as possible compared to b4.

For example, before hand, as long as I apply a constant throttle (even if its a small one) the car will hold onto 2nd gear until 70km/h, to get it to change at the "min speed" of 50km/h I need to reach 50km/h, back off the throttle & let it change. I have to do the same thing for it to go from 3rd to overdrive.

But now, if I still apply a small constant throttle, it will change from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to OD all by itself without me having to do any of the above (lifting off throttle to let it change).

Also the speed at which the gear changes seem to have being moved down lower, as now gear changes occur at 20, 40 & 60 instead of the old 25, '50' & '70'.

As a result, b4 if I were driving at 60km/h the car would stay in 3rd gear at ~2500rpm, but now it would change into OD ~<2000rpm.

Also the gearbox also seem to be much more sensitive to throttle & load compared to b4 & will happily drop down gears compared to b4, where it would just act lazy & stay in the same gear unless I'm really flooring it.

Finally the gear changes seem to be faster compared to b4; it like to hang there for a sec or so b4 changing but now its just jumping through them at rapid rate.

Basically I would like to know is how is this even possible? Can a SAFC alter the gear box logic? My understanding was the all it does is change fuel mixtures at different rpm points to avoid the car running rich due to the extra boost & stock ECU. Or is this caused by something else?

I got the SMIC & boost controller installed at the same time as the SAFC, but I doubt they got anything to do with the change of behavior of the auto box.

Any info would be appreciated

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290134-safc-2-auto-gear-box/
Share on other sites

Sounds like before it was shit and now it is working properly. The shop who tuned it probably noticed it was shit and then noticed the oil level in the biz was low so topped it up.

Have you tried contacting the shop who tuned it?

Possibly with the increased torque you are getting the auto will tend to upshift earlier.

Does the car feel sluggish/flatspot in anyway during the early upshifts?

Having upshift earlier with no side effects is not such a bad thing you save a little on fuel.

Sounds like before it was shit and now it is working properly. The shop who tuned it probably noticed it was shit and then noticed the oil level in the biz was low so topped it up.

Have you tried contacting the shop who tuned it?

LOL, this was one of the idea that came to mind while I was looking at the subject, compared to b4 the box does indeed feels & act like all the other auto box cars I have driven (91 VN commodore & 02 Camry) in that it doesn't hold onto each gear for a long time unless I'm flooring it or have power mode on.

Haven't contacted the shop yet, might do that on SAT, damm too much uni work going on.

Maybe they cut the TPS wire (the one on the plug the transmission uses) instead of splicing into it.

I'm guessing thats a bad thing? Sorry don't really know much about all the electronic stuff.

Possibly with the increased torque you are getting the auto will tend to upshift earlier.

Does the car feel sluggish/flatspot in anyway during the early upshifts?

Having upshift earlier with no side effects is not such a bad thing you save a little on fuel.

I didn't notice any sluggish/flatspot during the shifts, the gear shifts are actually better than before, before, the gear change from 1st to 2nd were like a big 'jerk', & now the 1st gear change is more like a soft 'click' simlilar with the other gear changes. The gear changes are still not as smooth as the 02 Camry, but I take that is due to the old condition of the auto box.

Seems all good so far, the only thing I don't like atm is that, since it will change into final gear at 60km/h & now its much more sensitive to throttle it will happliy downshift to 3rd if my foot was even slightly down too much on the gas & go into 4th again when I ease of the throttle.

Atm I'm getting around this problem by just turning Overdrive off on normal roads & only turning it on, on roads with speed limit of 70km/h or higher.

Lastly its kinda hard to maintain the speed limit with this increase in power, torque & throttle response. I need to work on upgrading my regular granny driving style to super granny style to get it under control. :thumbsup:

  • 3 weeks later...

Happy to report that my fuel usage went down from ~13.5l/100km down to the 11s range :)

Its now on par with my mum's Camry but with much more P-O-W-E-R!!! <screams out in Jermy Clarkson tone>

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔
    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
×
×
  • Create New...