Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have searched these forums for info on how to make an R33 GTR into RWD, and found little helpful advise based on R33's. I'd like for someone who has done this before, by removing fuse or front shaft (from transfer case to front diff) to comment on how this was done / any problems encountered?

Also Mine is a V-Spec, so dunno if this makes things more difficult.

I understand pulling the fuse isn't the answer (on R33), but what does this do exactly?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29019-how-to-r33-gtr-rwd/
Share on other sites

All you need to do is pull the fuse in the boot and bleed the 4wd pump of fluid, no need to drop front drive shafts.. I've had mine done to dyno it and causes no probs at all. Just make sure they do the screw up properly when they've finished otherwise you leak fluid... You lose around 60ml of transmission fluid that's all...

Mines a Vspec too...

Cheers

Brett

I may be wrong here, but I'm sure HKS or one of the name brand makes a "rod thingy". check out www.greenline.jp I think I saw one there.

I also remember checking out a GTR Vspec that had heeps of these gadgets/switches, one to switch the HICAS on/off, RWD/4WD on/off, Rod to reduce the sound of the exhaust, an on/off for the ATTESSA...etc

He's a SAU member, can't find the link but user name was En_One his contact numbers are 0415210220 or 0421531468 or email to [email protected]

Maybe give him a try, seemed to have every gadget under the Al Quaida Sun.

meshmesh are you referring to the HKS Drag Controller?

Buggered if I know??? All I can remember is that the car had 3 flick switches where the ashtray goes, & a rod about the size of a pushbike tyre pump, that was on the passenger side of the centre console. Also, I about 100% sure, he said one of them makes the car RWD only, which he used for track work. Is that a drag controller?

On a non-V-spec you just pull two fuses, one in the boot and one in the cabin and bingo, RWD central. I only drove for a short time and the clutch was slipping anyway so can't really say what it is like to drive as a RWD.

But that really doesn't help the original poster. But might save someone with a non-V-spec doing something silly like pulling their car to bits...

My understanding is that the remove the fuse option is not safe with R33s and later, apparently there is some wear on the clutch packs that does not occur with R32s.

And without meaning to hijack, when the forums were lost a thread re the HKS torque split controller was lost. Does anyone have any experience with it?

Thanks for the opinions guys.

CerealKiller / Blitz - I want RWD for drift and skidpan days. 4WD sticks too well and therefore limits my fun. harhar (evil laugh)

EVL R33 (Brett) - Have you removed this fluid yourself before? Could you perhaps elaborate on how this is done? Where is the 4WD pump found?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just a follow-up on this topic. From what I can tell so far the rusty residue on the engine block might be unrelated to a coolant leak or maybe just older than anticipated. After driving it from the winter garage to my friend's garage I could not see any new traces of coolant leaking there, but I will test this properly once I was able to fully warm up the car and drive it for a bit. I think I can agree that the whole porous engine block stuff is kind of nonsense, but there is just a silly amount of true, false and half-true information on anything Skyline-related on the internet.
    • hrmmm , not mine , easter plans to pull engine not happening     
    • I removed the IACV, cleaned it and reinstalled.  I found a video on youtube that helped with the whole process, the guy then said the idle needed to be set, so the process was to get the vehicle up to operating temperature, unplug the TPS, set the idle screw in the IACV so the RPMs were around 600, then plug the TPS back in.  After I reinstalled the IACV, the car started (because, it was a cold start), once it warmed up, the car died, I adjusted the idle screw to see if that helped anything, it did not, I had to wait about 3-5 minutes, then the car would start back up. Only to shortly cut out, and only crank.  I loosened the TPS to see if adjusting that would do anything, and when I would rotate the sensor clockwise, there was a humming noise, but it would go away when I got the sensor in the horizontal position.  It only made the hum noise with the key on.  What do you guys think? 20250414_172604.mp4
    • Quick update.  The engine grounding strap was replaced, the engine is now happily running.  Tested the voltage drop before replacing the strap, was about 1.2ish volts down between engine to battery, chassis to battery. With the new grounding strap, pretty much no voltage drop at all. 
×
×
  • Create New...