Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Parked my car at work this morning and it got slightly nicked at the rear by a mates car. :) Not so bad but still..

I managed to get rid of most of the scratches, but obviously it needs a pro job for repairing the dent.

Can anyone recommend a good place in perth for that?

I got a quote for $700 at a smash repair shop in welshpool. But i don't know if i can trust these guys.

:

here's some pics. Not really visible but it's there :)

IMG_0107.jpg

IMG_0108.jpg

Bad luck dude I feel ur pain, lucky it was a accident with ur mate and not some random toss

I know, thank god for that.Felt awkward though, Poor bastard's saving up for his wedding next month as well.

Try Dent Craft 1st.

http://www.dentcraft.com.au/

If they can't fix it then:

Advantage Panel & Paint

Insurance & private work, performance cars, prestige cars. Osborne Park location. Quality & professional service.

40 Howe St

Osborne Park

Ph:(08) 9244 2665

or

McCarthy Panel & Paint

122 Gugeri St

Claremont

WA, 6010

Australia

Ph:(08) 9384 9400

Edited by mosoto
Try Dent Craft 1st.

http://www.dentcraft.com.au/

If they can't fix it then:

Advantage Panel & Paint

Insurance & private work, performance cars, prestige cars. Osborne Park location. Quality & professional service.

40 Howe St

Osborne Park

Ph:(08) 9244 2665

or

McCarthy Panel & Paint

122 Gugeri St

Claremont

WA, 6010

Australia

Ph:(08) 9384 9400

Thanks mate, but i'd rather stick to south of the river workshops for now. Should've mentioned that before.

I gave Dentcraft a go, but they can't repair it.

Anyways i got a quote for from $440 including respray for $440 AutoRepaint Smash Repair at Welshpool.

Has anyone been there?

The shop on Bannister Road is pretty good. I had the wifes silver M3 fixed there and can't complain, did a good matchup and silver is a tough colour to match on plastics. I'll get the name when I get home.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better. 
    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
    • Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine
    • Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)
×
×
  • Create New...