Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  Angus Smart said:
needs modification? or straight fit? with all the navi working fine?

will i be able to get maps put on this unit? or same story again with no car in australia with the australian maps that will load on this unit?

NO modifications needed, a few little mis fits, but otherwise OK

Make sue you get a full unit with a face cover from US!

The CD Changer slot is located slightly lower, along with buttons

Navi is working, everything runs, BUT I HAVE NO MAPS

  [[d a n n y]] said:

same question..

i thought US goes by Miles not km's?

did you converit it over?

There's a choice in the menu to change from Miles to L/kms, which is great! :whistling:

My stagea was doing 8 l/100 on the highway for 100 kms! :D

  zei20l said:
that is friggen awesome!! very VERY nice work!!!

are you going to put up an FYI on how to do this? or perhaps sell your services to perform these conversions??

Its all quite simple to do yourself, just have to find removal guides for stereo and DVD unit, and follow the same to put it back in.

  Russian said:
NO modifications needed, a few little mis fits, but otherwise OK

Make sue you get a full unit with a face cover from US!

The CD Changer slot is located slightly lower, along with buttons

Navi is working, everything runs, BUT I HAVE NO MAPS

that makes your radio and PN2615 out of a 2004 model. they changes the mechs in them to avoid the issues with the 2001-2003 cars. the only realy way to sort it is to gt teh correct main panel.

I got caught on this a while back.

  [[d a n n y]] said:

if we can get navi disc for this it'll be awsome

Also does it have DVD player now?

wat does the D/N button do now?

NO DVD player, NO TV unfortunately.......but like anyone is going to use it

D/N is day/night lighting

  Russian said:
NO DVD player, NO TV unfortunately.......but like anyone is going to use it

D/N is day/night lighting

can't please every one eh?

this is the english work around you have been presented with and you still complain :)

if you guys with the NAVI versions want english buy the box and the buttons. that will sort it for you.

want it all to work buy the whole lot and swap it all out.

give the guy credit - he's taken the initiative to fix what he sees as a problem.

  zei20l said:
i would also! back to PS3 install in the car i think.......

is the screen resolution differerent in the US version???

same screen..

Quick questions for your Chris.

Would this setup work in an M35 RS?

I only ask as I have the single DIN Clarion unit with 3 gauge setup as opposed to the integrated unit.

Would everything hook up or would some re-wiring/splicing be in order?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
  • Create New...