Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey people , im currently doin a few minor mods to my 33 and i was thinking of removing the bov so that i get massive turbo flutter from my brand new t04e that im puttin on it and i was wonderin if , by taking off the bov will damage my new turbo? .

cheers shawne ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290289-bov-or-turbo-flutter/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

compression surge is not healthy unless u live in vic and drive a VL ? and go to bell st maccers

stock plumb back bov ftw!

LOLLz

but yeh,,stok bov's are shyt,,get a stocky r33 gtr one

You may wind up stalling it everytime you pull up at a roundabout or lights... but go for it.. i thought it was awesome fun when i first tried it... and refitting it costs nothing...

dunno if it will root ur turbo though after prolonged use...

??

I've found a stock BOV with the internal bleed hole made 50% smaller gives a great comprimise between sound and surge. Blocking it completely, surges too much in higher gears on the highway and makes tons of noise. Also try getting a pod, makes much more sound.

hey people , im currently doin a few minor mods to my 33 and i was thinking of removing the bov so that i get massive turbo flutter from my brand new t04e that im puttin on it and i was wonderin if , by taking off the bov will damage my new turbo? .

cheers shawne :)

Yes it will after a while and you will get increased lag.

You may wind up stalling it everytime you pull up at a roundabout or lights... but go for it.. i thought it was awesome fun when i first tried it... and refitting it costs nothing...

dunno if it will root ur turbo though after prolonged use...

??

Correct, but if you have a bov set to loose then it can also cause stalling. If you have a bov and tighten the spring in it then it will only open on high pressure, so you can get flutter with only a small amount of boost. savvy?

bro, jus get an fmic. after i put one on my car it made a flutter on high boost..nothin special but makes for some funny times

If you don't have a fmic, or at less a highflow side mount and you have a t04e then you're crazy.

hey people , im currently doin a few minor mods to my 33 and i was thinking of removing the bov so that i get massive turbo flutter from my brand new t04e that im puttin on it and i was wonderin if , by taking off the bov will damage my new turbo? .

cheers shawne :P

I was told that it will cause turbo damage over a period of time.

thanks boys thats awsome but i love that massive flutter sound i might look into it a bit more and get back to ya .

also without the bov . dose it matter that its externaly gated ?

if you no what i mean ?

cheers

Then don't use one, but it will cause damage over time. As for the BOV being externally gated....are you talking about the BOV or wastegate?? If you have a BOV venting to atmosphere then yes it is illegal. You can have an external gated turbo, which has a wastegate on exhaust manifold, to be legal that has to be plumbed back into your exhaust system further down.

I was told that it will cause turbo damage over a period of time.

yes.

I don't think you can win either way, best going with what drives you least crazy listening to over and over again.

I hear ya rob. I've been ''dosing'' for about 18months, and my mechanic has aswell for YONKS, with absolutely NO damage. So the whole argument about its 'fulleybadforurturbo'is BS.

I switch between bov and dosing. It just gets boring :P .

sorry about that i ment that the turbo is externialy gated and why is it that if you run a bov into atomo , its illegal ?

Anything that vents gases into the atmosphere is illegal.

Wategates are only legal if they plumb back into your exhaust (if it doesnt plumb back its called a screamer pipe and that makes it illegal)

Same goes for bov, If it is plumbed back into your pipe work its legal (if it doesnt plumb back into your pipe work and just releasles into the atmosphere it illegal)

Does that make sense ? ? ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PRICE  : $1400 LOCATION   : NSW Central Coast FIT  :  All Nissan 350Z type Z33 and Infinity G35 Coupe. See delivery note. Hi, brand new, unused, still in the box.  ($1850.00 is what i paid ) My bad luck !!! I thought my right front  Bilstein was cactus so i bought the ST 's to replace all.  Turns out the right front is fine ( loose mounting after service  by a well known importer of Bilsteins ) So im selling the ST's. They are made by KW ( no intro needed ) . Iam on the Central Coast and im willing to meet up in Sydney metro, within reason and Newcastle.
    • Yep, yeah would need to do the flywheel although the 6 bolt NA clutch can handle a 20de if just wants to replace the stocker.
    • No it's fine. Heat sleeve is a thing. With oil running through it it is unlikely. Engine off heat soak can be a thing though. There is no way that you have a leak through the hose. That has pressure behind it and any small hole will turn into a large one in very short order. It is so much more likely to be leaking from the connection.
    • Really? That's piss weak. I didn't know they hobbled the shitboxen that badly. OK. So probs need to buy a flywheel too. But that's not too bad.
    • Hi all. I already posted some newbie-ish questions here and there but this will be my first "big" post. Last summer I went and fulfilled a kind of childhood wish, because I just thought I needed this experience in my life no matter what. The car I bought is a mildly modded 1995 BCNR33 Vspec. It was repainted to a metallic orange color all around and it had all windows reseated. Not so well done black respray in the trunk and a metallic black in the engine bay. From outside it looks very nice except for a minor paint error on the roof and the rear spats needing new adhesive tape. The inside is pretty clean and no broken plastics, missing or faded buttons. Even the adjustable mirrors and trunk antenna work like a charm. Despite a moderately long list of issues I don't (yet) regret buying this car. Most mechanical problems are just due to age, like worn rubbers here and there. The underside sadly has lots of corrosion, especially to the back. It looks like it either has been driven in the winter for a while or it lived near the saltwater in Japan, the rust is nothing terrible but it'll require to be looked after. Mostly panel gaps and all the mounted components underneath are a bit crusty, but I don't think anywhere has progressed so badly that there's going to be holes. Front right jacking rail is crushed and needs some care so it doesn't develop into a rust crater at some point. Worst part is definitely the strut towers. I thought they looked fine but after taking off the strut bar I noticed that it actually started bulging up on the passenger side. Probably would have passed on the car or negotiated down by some thousand Euros more if I had noticed this before buying, but here we are. Trunk area also has signs that there was a water leak to the interior once but nothing too crazy, I guess lots of Skylines had this at some point. As for the list of (known) issues, I'll try to make this compact. I hope the coloring is self explanatory. Mechanical: -Various busted or soon-to-be busted rubber bushings and ball joints. Will replace ball joints with OEM or better and bushings with polyurethane where possible. -Shaking steering wheel at above 80kph -downshift from 5th to 4th is a bit crunchy unless I rev-match, might just try to renew the shifter assembly, but it's not a priority issue -tailshaft centre bearing could use a replacement, is it worth going 1-piece tailshaft as it doesn't look too fresh all around? Chassis: -underbody corrosion on many spots and in hollow spaces, needs to be treated -corrosion on many bolts, hoses, lines, suspension components, subframes, will be treated when replacing of the bushings is needed as time goes on -strut tower top panels and some of the surrounding panels are rusty, so needs fixing. Will look into doing this with a buddy in the winter, otherwise bite the bullet and pay a professional -driver side door is misaligned to the body and needs to go a slight bit more inwards -both door windows are misaligned and have an airgap where the window meets the door at the B pillar -The Aerocatch latches for the bonnet have locks but no keys, need new keys. -driver side door window is kind of gritty and could use a polish -damaged jacking rails and front frame rails, from people lifting the car the wrong way, might have this fixed by a bodyshop Electrical: -Nismo tachometer is just bouncing and displaying nonsense, supposedly worked fine when the stock ECU was still in the car -An old Greddy boost controller sits on the dash which will be removed as it servers no purpose anymore. -a led segment rpm gauge is on the steering column, will probably also be (re-)moved once the Nismo tacho is working correctly -there was an attempt to make the sound system better by the previous owner but it was just inducing noise all the time, ripped out the amp and filters in the back, no music for now -trunk antenna goes up as long as the radio is on regardless of the mode, I want it to only rise if I choose Radio specifically or per switch -3rd brake light is a bit dimmer than the taillights but everything was converted to LEDs so mabye now it just seems dimmer? -reverse light flickers, have to test if that behavior changes when I fiddle with the gear stick. Hope I can get around changing the switch. -Left side taillight, blinker section has minor water intake and is humid after washing. Other side has a hole in it, probably for that exact reason. I'll probably reseal them entirely and plug the holes. Engine: -minor coolant drips on one or the other hose -rear turbo leaks oil onto the exhaust making the car essentially undriveable due to fire hazard -Oil filter relocation kit has an oil drip at the Dash lines, will probably make a new connection there and tighten real good and pray -throttle body assembly is slightly stuck for the first throttle pedal input after sitting for a while I'm always open to suggestions and advice from more experienced people, I'm sure half of this list is easily dealt with and just requires some time and effort to sort out properly. Once I have some proper pictures of the car I will post some in this thread, I just have to remember to take some more once I get the chance to. Will post updates when I have news on anything, I want to try to keep this thread as kind of a logbook as well. Ultimately my goal for this car is to just enjoy it. An engine rebuild is probably going to happen sometime as well, because it is old after all. It will never be fully new again, I am just not that rich. But I want it to look good, work well and not rot away while I drive it. I'm probably gonna spend a lot of money on this journey, hopefully not an unreasonable amount.
×
×
  • Create New...