Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeah man i get ya now , so is there any one out there that can tell me for sure that removing the bov will defanitly cause damage to my turbo ?

There will always be people out there that say it defiantly will and others will say defiantly wont.

IMO the cars come with a stock BOV for a reason so regardless of whether its damaging to the turbo ide just leave it on (plumb back or atmo your choice)

A mate of mine ran his to4z on his rb26 for over 2 years with no BOV and never had issues, it probably is bad for your turbo over the long run but we are probably talking a very long time!

but if it is a bush bearing turbo apparently the damage occurs much sooner

Even if its not doing damage you loose efficiency because of the back pressure on the turbo . . . .

Blowoff valves are used to prevent compressor surge, a phenomenon that readily occurs when lifting off the throttle of an unvented, turbocharged engine. When the throttle plate on a turbocharged engine closes, the high pressure air in the intake system is trapped by the throttle and a pressure wave is forced back into the compressor. The compressor wheel slows rapidly and may even stall, and the driver will notice a fluttering air sound. The rapid slowing or stalling stresses the turbo and imparts severe turbo lag if the driver accelerates immediately after the surge event.

Quoted from good old wikipedia :3some:

A mate of mine ran his to4z on his rb26 for over 2 years with no BOV and never had issues, it probably is bad for your turbo over the long run but we are probably talking a very long time!

but if it is a bush bearing turbo apparently the damage occurs much sooner

Zachary!

I will affect the life of your turbo, but no damage so that you will notice it. But if you were to look at it as that if you had a BOV then your turbo will last longer then if you didnt have one then yes damage occurs.

Lets say 200,000 klm turbo life with BOV. to

180,000 klm turbo life without BOV.

It's not something that can be documented effectively, and also chances are that something else would cause your turbo to shit itself before this time anyway, like oil contamination.

There will always be people out there that say it defiantly will and others will say defiantly wont.

IMO the cars come with a stock BOV for a reason so regardless of whether its damaging to the turbo ide just leave it on (plumb back or atmo your choice)

??

stock ca's dont come with bov's

stock fj's dont come with bov's

check this out http://fdowners.com/showthread.php?t=217

'But at the end of the day. We could turn this into a 5yr long thread debating whether or not u NEEEEED them.

compression surge is not healthy unless u live in vic and drive a VL ? and go to bell st maccers

i loled :)

yeah man i get ya now , so is there any one out there that can tell me for sure that removing the bov will defanitly cause damage to my turbo ?

yep, i wouldnt do it, especially on a brand new turbo - if it was the stock turbz and i was looking to upgrade in the near future i'd be more inclined to block it off

bov's are shit.. enough said.

and what turbo are you running?

won't affect turbo life noticeably. May affect turbo efficiency ie more lag. Does it really matter? All you need to know is if you have a BOV and want it to be legal make sure it is plumbed back into the intake. /End thread.

This is a very interesting topic and makes me feel like I've been living under a rock as I never new that you could run a turbo charged engine without a BOV. I've quite enjoyed reading this thread.

I see there is no definitive answer so one would have to conclude that if you think its right for your cars setup than so be it. Some people like black some people like white none are wrong or better than the other just a personal preference.

In my opinion a factory BOV setup is to make the cars 'nice to drive' with minimal engine bay noises. They may also help meet certain emission standards. And possibly aid in the re-spool of the turbo between gears how ever marginal the difference would be.

It would be interesting to know how many people are running 'NO' BOV with there factory turbo's and if they have experienced any problems and or failure?

As I am keen to try a 'NO' BOV setup on my factory Toyota Caldina GT-4. Also how much boost can safely be run on a factory turbo with 'NO' BOV? Is there any tuners who specialize in these setups?

Great thread guys I hope we can find some solid Pro's and Con's for both setups.

Maybe someone could start a poll to see haw many people out there run what setup?

This is a very interesting topic and makes me feel like I've been living under a rock as I never new that you could run a turbo charged engine without a BOV. I've quite enjoyed reading this thread.

I see there is no definitive answer so one would have to conclude that if you think its right for your cars setup than so be it. Some people like black some people like white none are wrong or better than the other just a personal preference.

In my opinion a factory BOV setup is to make the cars 'nice to drive' with minimal engine bay noises. They may also help meet certain emission standards. And possibly aid in the re-spool of the turbo between gears how ever marginal the difference would be.

It would be interesting to know how many people are running 'NO' BOV with there factory turbo's and if they have experienced any problems and or failure?

As I am keen to try a 'NO' BOV setup on my factory Toyota Caldina GT-4. Also how much boost can safely be run on a factory turbo with 'NO' BOV? Is there any tuners who specialize in these setups?

Great thread guys I hope we can find some solid Pro's and Con's for both setups.

Maybe someone could start a poll to see haw many people out there run what setup?

You can run as much boost as you usually would....running NO BOV should create less problems really.

White is better though :P

:D I think I'll leave that one alone...

You can run as much boost as you usually would....running NO BOV should create less problems really.

Cheers mate. I might give it a go soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...