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What is the go to gearbox these days for a RWD RB? Back in the day VG TT boxes were cheap and strong. Seems they are as expensive as an RB25 box these days. What are the options without remortgaging the house? -
Define "Nissan big brakes". You just mean standard R34 4 pots? And...it's not even the offset you need to worry about. It's really a detail of how much clearance there is between the caliper and the back of the spoke/face, which is affected more by the design of the spoke than it is by the offset. If you think about it....take any wheel, say a 19x8 that does fit and clears the caliper. Then add or subtract an inch of wheel on the outside, without changing anything else. You have changed the offset by half an inch, but not changed the clearance situation at all. Same for if you add or subtract an inch from the inside edge. The way for you to work this out is to take a wheel off the car, grab a straight edge and a ruler or two, and start to measure the distances from the wheel mounting face on the hub to the outer face of the caliper, and the outer diameter (that faces the barrel of the wheel) of the caliper. Armed with these dimensions and any other measurement that grabs your fancy while you are there, you can then go to the seller of the wheels and do the reverse measurements from the wheel's mounting face and see if there will be clearance to the caliper. There really should be. I have 17x8 RPF1s +35 clearing the caliper face by a finger tip. Those wheels do have pretty thin spokes with some curvature.... but then so do most wheels to suit Jap cars. -
By Notorious Skyline · Posted
So I’ve got a r34 sedan that I managed to get green stickered, meaning I need to go through government approved wof station for my car to be allowed back on the road for some reason my car is certed for 19x8 rims.. I need these wheels does anyone know what offset will be fine to clear Nissan big brakes? I saw 35et for sale near me, I can’t drive the car to test fit or risk being fined .. I searched heaps online couldn’t find anywhere.. -
By Joe_Way_Jose · Posted
Okay, with all that being said about sloppy blowing from twins, I happily acknowledge the superiority of a single turbo setup on the RB; however, I still plan on double trouble. I know the -9s were quite popular for some time because they seemed to meet that sweet spot between the -7s and 5s, would introducing VCAM and/or stroking to 2.8L provide the additional displacement/flow to push twins closer to the 500-600 goal? Does it make more sense for a daily to just do an engine overhaul, slap some -7s on it and enjoy a bit more reliable power? Has anyone driven a mine's overhauled and tuned engine? I know they certainly don't approach the power numbers that you drag monsters do down under, but for daily street usage, I just want it to be fun and healthy. -
Mmmm. Perhaps more correctly stated that the one turbo doesn't actually force air back down the throat of the other. All it does, and all it has to do, is be pumping a little harder than the other turbo (which is an effect of how the turbos are getting driven by the exhaust and inherent resistance to output air flow that each turbo sees up to the merge). If the turbo that is not flowing quite as much then nudges the stall line (because it gets pushed there by the higher flowing one stealing the limelight and moving its own operating point further from the stall line), then you get the behaviour described by Josh. There is no need for air to move backwards in any way. It just needs to be less air moving forwards than is required to stay to the right of the surge line.
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