Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

Im getting sick of the series 1 skyline so i want to convert it to series 2...

I'm looking for a white r33 series 2 rear spoiler, r33 white series 2 front bar and r33 series 2 white rear boot garnish..

I just have a few questions firstlyy

will a series 2 garnish fit on a series 1?? or should i paint my current garnish??

secondly will i have to buy a new front end reinforcment bar?? or can i use my current one??

also will the series 2 bar fit with a series 1 bonnet?? or will it not fit or look stupid??

is a series 2 bonnet expensive??

also is it easy to install the front bar?? and will the series 2 spoiler fit the series 1 boot??

If anyone has an of these items can you let me knoww

or answer any questions please let me knoww :P

cheerrss guyss

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290386-r33-series-1-conversion-to-series-2/
Share on other sites

Hi

Im getting sick of the series 1 skyline so i want to convert it to series 2... SIFFFFFF

I'm looking for a white r33 series 2 rear spoiler, r33 white series 2 front bar and r33 series 2 white rear boot garnish..

I just have a few questions firstlyy

will a series 2 garnish fit on a series 1?? or should i paint my current garnish?? it will fit.

secondly will i have to buy a new front end reinforcment bar?? or can i use my current one?? as far as i know you will as series 1 and 2 are different though i could be wrong

also will the series 2 bar fit with a series 1 bonnet?? or will it not fit or look stupid?? it will fit but id say it will look out of place

is a series 2 bonnet expensive?? depends where you get it

also is it easy to install the front bar?? and will the series 2 spoiler fit the series 1 boot?? front bar is a 2min job if your car is ghetto spec, maybe about 10 mins if you like screws :) spoiler will fit easy.

If anyone has an of these items can you let me knoww might have a white front bar on sunday when i pick my white r33 up :)

or answer any questions please let me knoww :P

cheerrss guyss

and as always if you need a hand just message me on msn :)

  • Like 1

Save your money and spend it on the engine or a nice front mount if you haven't got one already...... You'll quickly get sick of a S1 that's trying to be a S2 and may have trouble selling it when the time comes.

S1 > S2 cant be done without bucket loads of cash

front bar is different due to guards being different therfore bonnet is different and then you will need a short list something like

front bar

font guards

new headlights

new bonnet

hinges, latches (maybe)

ohh ok

cheers everyone for the feedbackk..

so would anyone recommened coverting the rear of the car to s2??

so just the s2 spoiler and s2 garnish..??

is anything else different??

cheers

Pretty sure series 2 coilpacks are cheaper and easy to come by then series 1 as the series 2 relies on the ecu not an ignition module

arent s1 coilpacks cheaper coz u can use rb20 coilpacks and there all individual so u can replace them individually. whereas s2 are grouped or something? i think sum1 told me that correct me if i am wrong

there's no real difference between s1 and s2 engines! practically the same but the coil packs and turbo.

just get a s2 if you're not happy with the s1, i don't see the point in spending all this money and effort in making what you got to something that is already available

Pretty sure series 2 coilpacks are cheaper and easy to come by then series 1 as the series 2 relies on the ecu not an ignition module

same price

http://www.nengun.com/splitfire/super-dire...ignition-system

and i would say not as easy to come by i can use coil packs from

S1 Rb25

all R32 GTR's

all R33 GTR

s2 engines can only use S2 engined coils :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm hoping I just don't have to do an engine rebuild NOW. Doesn't mean I won't do it at some point. I think a plus point is that the car presumably ran on or close to stock power nearly all it's life so far. Only the Owner I bought it from actually increased power with a standalone ECU and blew the OEM turbos. And after it got thee 2860s it wasn't driven an awful lot either.   That is what I meant. With the twins coming on so late (4500-5000rpm) I hope the rods won't want to exit the block prematurely. And it still being a 26 means the torque curve isn't gonna hike up all that much.   It didn't blow up on the dyno when they tuned it to 500ish crank. So I suppose it'll be okay for now. They did put a Tomei head gasket on first though which did not seal at all, and they redid it with a Cometic one. Which I hope won't be my water leak.   Mainly anything oil. So far all it has is the N1 pump, oil restrictor and a filter relocation kit with a cooler.
    • 15000? ish? Something like that anyway. It wasn;t so much a wear as a tear that then spread. Might have lasted a lot longer if not bothered by just one incident, whatever it was. I took a punt. They are really comfortable and do a good job of holding. My daughter HATED it when I first put them in, and probably still does now. She has sensory issues and hates the way they are all up your business. I'm 197cm and 95kg. Not fat or particularly wide, and the XL size seat is the rigth fit. If I was any fatter it would start to get too snug. Any skinnier and you'd possibly want the smaller width.
    • Mrs rs focus came factory with recaro cs  sportsters in it and they a pain in the ass to get in and out of with the really high bolsters, once you were in them they were one of the most comfortable seats I have ever sat in
    • The NA 2.5 has very little torque. You won't feel much. Those trannies are also a million years old now and it could well be f**ked. First generation electronically controlled autos will often refuse to kick down, ete, etc, depending on what's wrong with them.
    • Yes, but no but yes but no. Those "it's fine up to 500HP" rules and everything else like it were all determined back when the cars were 10 years old. As they are now 30 years old.....what do you reckon the chances of something shitting the bed are? I'd say they are much higher now than they used to be. You might be lucky. You might be unlucky. Spin the wheel and find out. Yeah, nah. It's actually exactly the opposite. Making boost early and having heaps of torque able to be generated right in the middle of the rev range will do more to damage an engine than having to rev it high to make the power. Think about the load on the conrods, bearings, etc, to make 400HP at 4000 rpm, vs 400 HP at 6500 rpm. So someone has already "let the Nissan out" which is how we describe the increased chance of a fiddled with engine to have had something done wrongly. Many more engines that have been opened die than stock ones do - even if you into consideration how they are treated wrt power levels and the like. Again, not saying that yours will definitely have been put back together by a moron. But the possibility does exist. It's still a lottery. Spin the wheel. What weakspots?
×
×
  • Create New...