Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The 18x10's (GTC01's) that i have been running have a 22mm offset all round. So not ideal at all. Depending on the tyres they stick out from the front guards, which is against CAMS rules for motorsport events. I think even the TE37's stick out somewhat. I guess it's just a question of offsets etc. Spacers will not solve the problem (the wheels need to come in). I've done other mods to try and bring the top of the control arm in, but it's just not enough :P Even a rota with 30mm offset isnt completely ideal.

Can you machine a recess into the wheel? Just a thought?

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Can you machine a recess into the wheel? Just a thought?

We looked into that, the Enkie's dont really have enough meat really. Another option is (i have heard) there is an adjustable upper control arm available now or soon. So you could lean the top arm in more, which would give more camber too. I looked into getting custom wheels made (by Simmons) just before they closed doors, about $1200/rim.

OK I think the point about people's past experience with these wheels has been clearly made. No need to continue with that, or the personal attacks attached. No-one has been banned (yet), so just consider this a warning.

Dunc,

I look forward to your results with wheels and tyres, I am looking at either a setup like yours or doing the Hoosiers on 19s.

I get the feeling that the "inferior" arguement has now been flogged to death so hopefully heresay and speculation can stop and the guys who are actually testing and doing something rather than just keyboard bashing can have their thread back.

Keep up the good work Dunc you have provided more technical data and proven testing on the R35 on the track than almost anyone (Not forgetting Munro, Martin et al...lol)

Cheers.

Dunc,

I look forward to your results with wheels and tyres, I am looking at either a setup like yours or doing the Hoosiers on 19s.

I get the feeling that the "inferior" arguement has now been flogged to death so hopefully heresay and speculation can stop and the guys who are actually testing and doing something rather than just keyboard bashing can have their thread back.

Keep up the good work Dunc you have provided more technical data and proven testing on the R35 on the track than almost anyone (Not forgetting Munro, Martin et al...lol)

Cheers.

Thanks Gibbo. If I was setting up for a casual track days, unbound by the CAMS tyre list, I would probably go with the 19" RE30's and Hoosier R6's - I haven't tried them myself but a lot of the guys in the US have and they seem to work well by all accounts. Plus you just have less woes with sizes/clearances/offsets etc. They look good too :devil: However you obviously can't drive to the track on slicks... I've probably gone through 5 sets of tyres this year and (at $2500 a set) it adds up pretty quick! 19" 888's are significantly more $$ again. I am not even going to entertain the idea of the new 20" R's (quite evidently I am a cheap bastard, ha ha :P).

As for rim quality comments, some here should be careful about what they commit to writing on a public forum. We are looking to arrange alloy density uniformity testing via spectagram analysis with complimentary ultrasonic strength testing, possibly next week. So.. those with facts to back up their statements having nothing to worry about (and those talking out of their arse.. goodluck with that!) I am NOT joking.

i'm not worried lol. but im sure nissan will be interested finding out that they could have just got rota to build them cast wheels in a chinese factory at the same strength and weight as rays and at a fraction of the cost.

i'm not worried lol. but im sure nissan will be interested finding out that they could have just got rota to build them cast wheels in a chinese factory at the same strength and weight as rays and at a fraction of the cost.

lol, yeah, because that's exactly what this is about, isn't it......... ffs.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...