Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all thanks for reading!

last night i but a z32 ecu on my r33 gtst, i followed these instructions.

R33 pin 19 to Z32 pin 34

R33 pin 105 to Z32 pin 110

R33 pin 110 to Z32 pin 105

R33 pin 112 to Z32 pin 114

R33 pin 114 to Z32 pin 112

R33 pin 57: cut

Z32 pins 29+55 :<<<i had no wire in 55 so i made one.

Z32 pin 33 cut (exhaust temp light)

i have installed a romavale eprom in the z32 ecu and installed a z32 base map with r33 map inside given to me by nistune.

the car strikes up but its very lumpy and pumping in huge amounts of fuel. i checked my wiring and i cant see anything wrong

i even burnt another eprom and its still the same?

even if i remove the afm the car is just the same and i have a z32 afm and r33 .

any help would be great guys thank you :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290458-please-help-r33-z32-ecu-troubles/
Share on other sites

Seeing as you aren't just installing a direct replacement ecu, i'd put it all back together with the std ECU and AFM, and give it to a professional.

But if you're hard headed like me, and wont give up that easily;

re-check all your wiring, and make sure all the connections have been properly made.

This caught me out when i replaced my ecu- there was loosely spliced wiring from gadgets installed by a previous owner - and i accidentally disconnected one of the wires without noticing, which caused similar engine behaviour to what you are having.

Check your afm + its wiring, make sure that has been connected properly also.

Make sure the ecu loom is plugged in firmly too - do the bolt up as much as you can. If you dont do it up tightly, the loom can move slighty, and the engine will splutter and shut itself off.

wtf did you put that in for??? why dont you just buy an aftermarket engine management system like normal people do?

Because Nistune is better than any after market ECU within its price range(Actually quadruple the price range?) And trust me a lot of normal people chip the stock ECU

Now for something helpfull. What AFM are you using and what injectors? Was the chip you put in setup for z32 equipment as far as the K Value? (In other words is the tune expecting a Z32 AFM to be connected and different sized injectors?)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dang. I love the little 'oil used' bingo card on the side.   🤣  Well, now they can use a box and an oil-filled goon.
    • Many many moons ago, I was chatting with Andy Wyatt, about his auto ignition tuning. One of the HUGE things he said to me, when tuning for power, right where you hit peak ignition timing for your max torque, dramatically increases NOx emissions. He was finding in testing, particularly on engines you could advance timing beyond peak torque, that backing the ignition timing off a couple of degrees only made for a small drop in torque (compared to if you keep backing it off further the same amount of degrees) but dramatically reduced NOx emissions. I'd say targetting for 14.7, and he's even mentioned in some scenarios going slightly leaner, and pulling a few degrees of IGN timing will help pass for emissions quite a lot. However, who tunes an RB for emissions
    • The main stuff from.Vibrant I see is more their intercooler piping, and everyone raving about their clamps, but when I looked it was about $150 per clamp... I was a bit   I also thought the public price SP had up was high. As Mark said, a normal exhaust shop can fab them. It was many years ago that I had a full exhaust built, but for a full turbo back exhaust, and 2 custom built mufflers, plus a high flow cat, was about $1,100, and that was fully installed, drive in, drive out. I believe SP was about $900 for 2 mufflers, just supplied   These days, I just buy the material and built it myself, because I need to stretch my $$$
    • I'm pretty sure if it's considered a gasoline powered vehicle you have to do certification against a fixed, very expensive certification fuel.  If you add two precats and then replace the main cat with two cats back to back you can get an RB26 to do 0.24 g/mi HC, 1.6 g/mi CO, and 0.3 g/mi NOx on the FTP-75 drive cycle. Found this out courtesy of California's laws at great expense. Divide by 1.61 to get g/km. So even with extra cats + precats you're blowing past the NOx limit by probably 2.3x. Probably the only way to get an RB25 or RB26 to meet euro 4 purely from an emissions per km standpoint and not durability/OBD2 requirements is retrofit at least intake side VVT, clearance the pistons to allow the full 50 degrees of advance so part throttle EGR can be maximized, and change the wastegate control from conventional 7 psi spring for example to one that is always fully open if the wastegate line is at 1 atm or higher and only close it in response to vacuum. See BMW's N54 engine as a reference for how this works. You would need to find space for a vacuum tank to function as an accumulator in this system. That way you can avoid any heat loss to the turbine as much as possible during cold start to heat the catalyst faster. Then find some way to eliminate as much as possible cold start enrichment to light off the catalyst rapidly. Maybe secondary air injection if there's no way to avoid cold start enrichment. Close coupled catalysts in the downpipe are probably necessary. I would also probably swap to EV14s, pick something with the correct spray targeting + dual cone pattern for the intake manifold you're using. EV1 style injectors to pass anything resembling modern emissions requires a very annoying air assisted injector system to break up the droplets at part throttle/idle which still doesn't work that great compared to just having smaller droplets from the injector to begin with. Realistically, you're probably going to be financially ahead if you just pay the fines instead. Or don't drive it into the city center. There's a reason why Nissan never bothered to even attempt certifying an RB for CA/US emissions. The VG30 needed external EGR on top of NVCS to pass in the 90s. Doing all of this work is also distinctly expensive and you're going to struggle to find anyone who is remotely interested in helping. 
    • I remember those, people use to steal them to make bongs.....
×
×
  • Create New...