Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did a shed clean out last weekend

From memory i have:

R32 PS Pump $120 (on hold)

R32 Complete wiring loom $180

R32 Computer $50

R32 Ignitor $80

R32 Coil pack cover $50

R32 Standard fuel rail modified with center feed return (currently has a speedflow block off) good for your big power RB20 or R32 RB25DE Head - $80

R32 Injector plugs (I may be able to use these) $15

Sard Injector plugs $20

Set of average coilpacks $30

Set of perfect working coilpacks (will be for sale after I tune) $150

R32 Coil pack loom in good condition $35

R32 Air Conditioning condensor + some lines $150

RB30 Sump Good condition $100

R33 Standard cooler pipes $20

R33 Stock Fuel Regulator $20

R33 Standard crossover pipe and BOV $40

R33 Standard intake pipe $30

R33 Steering Rack suit rebuild $30

R33 Alternator $150 (on hold)

R33 Carbon Canister $30

R33 Standard Oil Cooler that bolts to the block $50

R33 Dipstick and guide $20

R33 Windscreen washer bottle $30

R33 Aftermarket Blue silicone Top radiator hose $40

R33 Single Din coin compartment holder thing (under the Head unit) $20

Few bits of 3" Blue Silicone $10 each

Blue silicone RB25 Throttle body -> 3" Adapter brand new - $20

Tons of hoses plugs and brackets i cant remember where they all go...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290529-random-r32-and-r33-parts/
Share on other sites

no because the whole sentence reads "R32 Standard fuel rail modified with center feed return (currently has a speedflow block off) good for your big power RB20 or R32 RB25DE Head - $80"

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I much prefer that to an actual oil pressure issue, never would of thought it would of been a volt drop issue but SAU brains win again. Guess ill be turning down the oil pressure limit for the track and hunting some grounds. Ill hopefully update this thread with some high oil pressure and solid ecu voltage logs. 
    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
×
×
  • Create New...