Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if uve got the do$h then do the whole zaust system , extractors back its worth it if u can afford it, if not a cat back is fine.

Dont go higher than 2.5 inch and dont go lower than 2.1/4 inch not worth it.

To avoid attention from the boys in blue dont get a fat, angled cannon, a simple twin tip will suffice, plus it looks stock.

Heat wrapping or heat coat the headers either or both, depends how fussy u are.

You will be able too feel a difference from your new system, makes the car feel alot more responsive

if u are in the sydney area google 'best mufflers', 'liverpool exhaust' and 'tuffy mufflers' ring around and get some quotes

and lastly, enjoy your ride :D

here is my input, Just put a decent filter Pod/Panel and just go a cat back. dont waste your time/money

as i have a r33 s1 gts and thats all i have, yeah its no race car but hey thats what u get for being on your P's these days.

just stick it out and save for a turbo conversion OR sell and get a turbo car.

" catback with pod still beats most 6's and 4 "

Here is what i have done since you cant do power mods.

i got my stock r33 and added what i could eg,

bodykit inc - Trust front bar / Vs side skirts / Vs rear bar / Carbon fibre bonnet.

18" chrome wheels, Super low king springs, Exedy racing clutch, 2.5" cat back exhaust.

stereo, painted my brakes, got some axs seat covers, painted plastic interior parts.

basically anything i could to keep me satisfied.

BUT now...

come december 8th im off my P's and i already got my shopping list together,

DONT bother upgrading your n/a engine to turbo "been there done that" its so much easier to swap and drop and u know it will run properly!

u just go get your rb25det motor from an auto wreckers and put that in with a wiring loom and ecu.

Anyways here is what im doing now for my conversion,

- $1800 Rb25det Engine + loom

- $1300 Apexi Pfc w/Hc

- $130 Turbosmart Dual Boost Controller

- $399 JustJap FMIC

- $110 Sard FPR

- $245 Bosch 040 Fuel pump

- $350 Z32 AFM w/Adapter

- $1174 Varex adjustable cannon - 3" piping - 3" highflow cat

- $633 GFB Deceptor Pro Bov

- $600 Dyno Tune

Total = $6471 ( ide like to upgrade injectors but will do when i get my plenum and fuel rail done / when i save :banana: )

Brakes! yes u should upgrade your 4stud to 5stud and get turbo brakes to now stop this powerful build of RB,

Correct me if im wrong, but i think u can just upgrade your rotors and brakes on the 4stud which would be cheaper

and it will still do a great job of slowing your new built RB down.

YES! some will say what a waste of money sell it and get a turbo model!

I Think! just save your money for the next 3yrs on your P's and u will have the turbo car u want.

"I dont know if anyone feels the same but i dont wanna see someone else driving around in the car i built"

so as i said i built up my looks/exterior of the car how i like it while i was stuck on my P's,

and since i was stuck for 3yrs i saved up money and now i will have the performance aswell.

Oh and just so u know how much power i was putting out with just 2.5" catback and a pod filter,

"i had injector problems thats why i had it dyno'd"

and i got a power rating of 110rwkw with the blocked injectors, so i was happy with that.

sweet, my fully reconditioned engine is at 167kw with a pod and heat shield. But then again i dont drive it much now that i hit a wall because semi slicks are the devil!!!

I agree with you for not getting rid of your car. Its still yours and going to be a turbo and everything will be the condition that you know because you have had the car for 3 years and its not to expensive so your thinking smart......As for brakes the NA brakes are fine you just need a really good pad (changing the caliper should be better but from what i have heard people say there is almost no difference with the turbo pads to the NA pads :thumbsup: )

If you get good pads then the rotors are even more important and if you want to stay 4 stud you will have to order r33 GTST rotors from DBA but ask the engineers to drill the 4x114.3 hub bolt holes. It can be done because i work at supercheap and plan too get some nice 4000 series from them.

Handling is the way to go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • 2 weeks later...
Just get a heat proof coating and wrap them if you must.

That won't look stock though.

With a heat shield obscuring vision, a cop looking under the bonnet will not be able to tell its not stock.

  • 5 months later...

Hey people i finally got my system done, (yes i know lagged heaps haha) but i went to Liverpool exhaust and got a stainless steel 2.5inch straight through exhaust and ceramic extractors :D car feels so much more responsive now (would like to know the power gains though), sounds unreal. It set me back abit but all worth it if you tell me.

cheers

Hey people i finally got my system done, (yes i know lagged heaps haha) but i went to Liverpool exhaust and got a stainless steel 2.5inch straight through exhaust and ceramic extractors :D car feels so much more responsive now (would like to know the power gains though), sounds unreal. It set me back abit but all worth it if you tell me.

cheers

aw yeah man thats good as..

how much did it set you back all together?

yeah man :cool:

i know it seems expensive but since i got it with stainless steel it set me back $1800, but worth every cent

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...