Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What sort of duty of care would you expect from a workshop tuning your car? Eg you take your car in to get tuned and you expect to get it back with a better tune. Lets say they ramp up the ignition and dont listen for knock and pop your motor. You obviously cannot prove that they did this and they can blame it on a poorly made motor etc.

What sort of liability do they have and what would be reasonable to request when taking a car in for a tune so that you aren't left with a popped motor and no reimbursement? I mean lets say you do the obvious things like looking for a reputable workshop with no known horror stories, inquire into what sort of knock detection they use and be insistent on a safe street tune however your motor still goes pop. Is there any legal course of action that could leave you with some form of reimbursement, or are you basically shit out of luck?

I have no reason not to trust the workshop I am going to but I would like be as cautious as possible, not to mention I would love to learn more about the tuning process so I will ask if I can hang around for some of it. Are tuners likely to go along with this?

I don't have any qualifications in law - and yet, I'm aware (being a small businessman) that our society is becoming more litigious, and it's more likely to complain to the proprietor, small claims, fair trading & ACCC than ever. I personally have to keep up high levels of insurance in public liability, professional liability, stock & fittings etc.

Back to your thread, if the consumer really did know his/her rights, one could and should ask the tuner for proof of membership with the MTA and sight current proof of 'paid-up' liability insurance of a patron's car whilst on site (with terms and conditions in simple English).

I must admit that on occasions, I have only asked for verbal acknowledgment over this matter - and never asked for those pieces of paper. Hell, I don't even know what the MTA Code of Ethics are and whether it's just a toothless tiger. MTA's Code of Ethics is on http://www.mtansw.com.au/about.php

As a devil's advocate, I also wonder if there has ever been an owner of a sh/tbox out there who has (with his own clandestine intent) taken his wheels to a tuner only to try and sue the socks off him later on. :P

As a devil's advocate, I also wonder if there has ever been an owner of a sh/tbox out there who has (with his own clandestine intent) taken his wheels to a tuner only to try and sue the socks off him later on. :P

and that is where the whole issue gets complex. unless they done the whole build on a car, how can you prove what a tuner did caused a problem?

how many businesses could afford to run a car up on a dyno (say $50) with the risk of a $5,000 rebuild if something goes wrong....even if 1 car in 100 goes wrong on those odds they would not make a cent....and I guess it happens more often than 1 in 100...

all you can do is go somewhere well recommended - don't worry about 1 or 2 people who've had a problem because every workshop has had issues at sometimes - what you need is a feeling that they are genuine and will show due care.

Yeah I don't know the exact laws but tuning isn't a quoted repair with a guarantee to back it up...you might as well be fanging your car around a racetrack for the day - it's basically the same thing. As was highlighted above, it's not so much 'how do you prove they were at fault?', it's 'how do you prove it wasn't your engine on its last legs?'. Tuners have no keen interest in pushing your car to the absolute limit...they don't want the trouble and the intelligent ones will only safe tune a road car anyway unless you give express permission to go nuts on it.

If they did the build on a forged engine you might have a leg to stand on if something went wrong, but even then the tuning part of things seems a bit grey to me.

the tuner should know whats going on with your motor when its on the dyno, for example tuner puts car on dyno notices something is wrong with the motor, tuner then pulls car off dyno and informs customer of problem. that what a good tuner should do a bad tuner would try an tune around the problem.

personal experience when i bought my car it has just been tuned by a quality workshop with a well established name in Canberra, problem was my car had a dodgy fuel pump which would cause AFR's to skyrocket once boost was being made that tuner then removed heaps of ignition and turned the knock light off. once i received my car i took it to my tuner who knows imports inside out he placed my car on the dyno found the problem caused by the previous tuner. he made 3 runs in shoot out mode to confirm the crazy AFR's and retarded ignition he pulled the car off the dyno made no charge.

he fixed the fuel pump which caused the previous motor to fail and tuned the car and charged me for the new fuel pump and dyno time that was spent tuning. he also rang the other workshop and asked why they had tuned the car the way the had. i have done 40k since my tuner fixed the car and have never had a problem in regrads to the motor running twice the factory power (touch wood).

in the end any GOOD tuner should know what going on with your engine if the motor is'nt in good condition it shouldn't be anywhere near a dyno.

in the end any GOOD tuner should know what going on with your engine if the motor is'nt in good condition it shouldn't be anywhere near a dyno.

And that is the major problem, how do you determine a good tuner from a bad? Most people don't have the knowledge to tell themselves and a tuner certainly isn't going to say 'Im an average tuner'.

I'm really up in the air about who I should get in SA to tune my car.

the tuner i use makes you sign a waver of liabilty if he didnt do the work

but i still wouldnt ever take my car to any one else ive had major problems with outher tuners inculding two blown motors a blown gearbox and a slipping clutch

one tryed to charge me for a tow truck after he broken the gear box doing burnouts

you should be able to tell if a tuner is any good just by talking to him

There aren't always telltale signs of an engine about to go. It could be anything from a belt snapping to a pump collapsing, or a rod shooting through the side of the block.

In the end you are getting someone to modify your engine to do what it wasn't intended to do. Shit can happen sometimes...that's the risk you take and the consequences that go with it. No different to smacking your car into a wall or blowing an engine in a race. Why do people think tuning should be such a safe endeavour? Even a dyno day can send you home with a broken car.

there is certainly a duty of care owed by tuners when you leave your car with them - they can't just charge you money to tinker with your car and say, oh well if it lets go it's not our fault.

yes they are making the car more powerful, making it do things it wasn't built to do etc, but that shouldn't excuse them of liability - what about LPG conversion places, they use dynos to tune cars - do they not have a duty of care to their customers either?

OP, i think it's best if you discuss these issues with your chosen tuner before any work is done, just so he knows you're not willing to lay down and cop it if he pops your motor.

And that is the major problem, how do you determine a good tuner from a bad?

^^^Well said in the post above Ric - spoken like a true LL.B.

As Ric mentioned above, you DO TALK to your tuner or upgrader BUT...

the obligation is on YOU to ASK THE RIGHT QUESTIONS too!!!

For instance, go to TUNER A, B & C, and prepare your list of Qs beforehand no matter how naive they might seem!

Culturally, people on the east and west coast of USA + west coast of Canada are very upfront about asking the most simple Qs.

At the end of seminars that I've had the privilege of speaking at, these dudes seem to have collected more jigsaw puzzle pieces than most.

So TUNER A runs you through a sequence of what he intends to do on your car and then explains why.

TUNERs B & C do the same.

Then you choose between them.

If you're concerned about taking too much of the TUNER's time, you start with a LEADING QUESTION!

Do you know what a LEADING Q is?

It's used a) to make your gutsy Qs softer and less intimidating b) when you have an ulterior motive c) to remove resistance from the person you talk to, and d) buy a more appropriate time to talk in case he's busy.

So the LEADING Q I'd ask is, "When's the best time Mr.......... to run past me what you'd do with my car to make it............." :dry:

Hope this helps.

there is certainly a duty of care owed by tuners when you leave your car with them - they can't just charge you money to tinker with your car and say, oh well if it lets go it's not our fault.

yes they are making the car more powerful, making it do things it wasn't built to do etc, but that shouldn't excuse them of liability - what about LPG conversion places, they use dynos to tune cars - do they not have a duty of care to their customers either?

OP, i think it's best if you discuss these issues with your chosen tuner before any work is done, just so he knows you're not willing to lay down and cop it if he pops your motor.

Oh yes they can. The thing is they try not to...because it's not in the interest of the tuner to blow up an engine and deal with a small claims case. A good tuner will always try to tune the car safe without pushing the limits of it. The only extent to which they are liable is if you can prove some sort of negligence on their behalf as a tuner - this is VERY hard to do...just look at previous cases of it happening. But when you hand them the keys you're giving them permission to screw with your car outside of what it was intended for...it's not the same as being in for repairs at a mechanical workshop.

Why shouldn't it excuse them of liability? They're playing with a ticking time bomb. How can you expect tuners to survive let alone make money if they have to fork out for everytime someone gives them an engine on its last legs? Not to mention the demographics of the clientele, being for most part the same people who tend to thrash their cars. These are risks the customer is supposed to be aware of before handing their keys over to a tuner. Why do you think it can be a completely safe practice free of f*** up? It can't be.

Also, LPG conversion places don't use dynos to tune cars. Unless you are investing in liquid injection or your car had issues getting it to run on gas it won't go near a dyno. Some parts are replaced as prerequisite for installation e.g. spark plugs/leads. Others can fail just because of the installation and it's not the installer's fault...oxygen sensors for example need to be in better condition to work with gas than they do with petrol. Again, the clientele for this business...mostly mid 90's cars and many have high mileage...all time bombs waiting for parts to fail. If they are a qualified installer you won't have a leg to stand on unless you can prove their negligence in the matter.

As you say the best thing you can do is ask your tuner questions to ascertain whether they are confident in their abilities and will take every precaution they can to prevent engine damage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...