Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ahhh the age old christmas strip down of drift cars. in tassie less than half usualy return once they are stripped down for "a bit of a tidy up"

im more than confident that yours will be back better than ever soon enough.

yeah motivation becomes a killer once you got a car that is completly stripped down haha.

a few beers a few blokes and a hand full of tools can make a mess of a car in a night but beers dont help when its going back together.

  • 4 weeks later...

Update!

Picked up my car from Garage 7 after getting dec's and the team to do a fuel system in the car to suit E85 and with zero possibilities of issues and this is what it came back with.. twin 044's surge tank. twin feed and hard lines all the way in one piece and bent in all the right places to the engine bay. the Stock fuel rail was modified with two inlet fittings welded on and a single middle return with an Adjustable FPR.

very high quality and pro job... cannot fault it.. only messy looking thing about it is my wiring which i did haha.

Also got AM Performance to modify my cooler piping to suit my new cooler positioning.. pipe work is much shorter now and everythings safer. I was hoping to run AU thermo's but it looks like there will be ZERO room :(

anyway here's the pics :D

p1010565s.jpg

p1010564h.jpg

p1010563mv.jpg

p1010562n.jpg

p1010561p.jpg

p1010560t.jpg

p1010559u.jpg

p1010558i.jpg

p1010557j.jpg

p1010556d.jpg

Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm i love solid fuel lines. theres somthing very cool about them.

you may not notice especialy running e85 but in the past we have found heat soak and cooling issues running a cooler so close to the radiator. everyone seems to be doing it in drifting circles but im wondering if you will have problems. time will soon turn

think i'll try my best to insulate the two cores to minimise the amoutn transferred between the two metals touching. apart from that we'll see how it goes... i have a air duct out of alloy yet to be made yet which should help!

Just got mine retuned.. stock un opened Neo RB25det. 3076, E85 and twin 044's, 80lb deka injectors, nistune and z32.. about to run out of scale on the afm map too.

result was 397.2 rwkw on 19 psi.

p1010570.jpg

Edited by Simon-R32

drift prac run and done... tested the car with its new found power and its pretty amazing to drive! thanks massivly to Decs from Garage 7 for the tune and fuel system work... everything is so awesome now!

tested two different tyres for SA Motorsports tyres, one being a Kenda KR20 and the other a hercules. so was a little off the pace normally as we we're mucking around with pressures and temps. the Kenda's are great tho.. last ages and decent grip. however i found with the power i have now i need something more otherwise im just left feathering thre throttle trying to gri and get forward speed while slower cars can keep it pinned and pull away.

never the less i had a ball and heres some vids.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...