Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

well not a lot has happened to the s14 lately but i finally have parts and the next 3-4 weeks are going to be FULL ON. so here goes the updates!

Got the motor back from machinist... hot washed the block, hone, new welsh plugs, decked the block, grubscrewed the crank, linished crank, skimmed the head, hardness tested and pressure tested the head. new valve stem seals and general clean up. all going back together this weekend with total seal rings, ACL race bearings for mains and big ends (new ones again) full nissan gasket kit and deciding to go back to OEM head gasket instead of the MLS gasket i was using.

20120301174645.jpg

20120301174635.jpg

20120301174626.jpg

20120301174621.jpg

finally painted the engine bay and inside... tho i ran out of paint and didnt fully finish some parts of the inside.. makes it very difficult with full windows in to paint the inside of a car lol. Will have to finish the rest later on cause im all out of time/paint etc to do the rest. All in all.. looks shit loads better

429508_318639328185177_165749486807496_865833_263116808_n.jpg

419274_318709381511505_165749486807496_865990_1386835188_n.jpg

430515_318735891508854_165749486807496_866018_1653789459_n.jpg

got my mate Hayden at All Type Crash to paint my engine covers for the new motor... shit looks unreal. Its a Candy apple metallic orange... pretty cool! Heres some pics.. some of the pics are of it before the clear was applied.

20120305181131.jpg

20120305181138.jpg

20120305181148.jpg

20120305181311.jpg

20120305184350.jpg

20120305184358.jpg

20120305184407.jpg

nah i just want to finish this thing.... sick of working so many late nights on it... thats the down side of doing 90% of shit yourself i guess

The joys of doing everything yourself! It takes time!

Good work mate!

too true.. i just dont have the budget to afford to pay someone else to do everything else for me. plus im a qualified mechanic so i'd be stupid to palm it off anyway haha.

another day done... more work done.. not as much progress as i'd like as i spent more time scraping gaskets off the rb26 intake gear then actually achiving stuff... man those gaskets are a fkn PAIN to remove!!

another day done... more work done.. not as much progress as i'd like as i spent more time scraping gaskets off the rb26 intake gear then actually achiving stuff... man those gaskets are a fkn PAIN to remove!!

We run 3 bond on ours now. the standard ones are expensive, and a pain to remove. stands upto 23 psi fine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...