Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How did you go on the last car with the turbo being so close to the paint? Did it melt anything? I know you had the metal heat shield fitted but did you have any issues? Mine looks to be closer to the tower so i am a little concerned.... I got a blanket/beanie or whatever you call it but not sure how long it will last! :huh:

more pics.. manifold is done.. its a very high quality item from Garage 7. whole lot of trickery has gone into it and every runner is the exact same length. collector is laser cut and a few other little n eat things like the fact that i can install the whole thing using just one spanner. no custom cut down tools needed! excuse the finish... i painted it with VHT flame proof paint for now.. will get it ceramic coated soon. but after this up comign event next weekend

20120323153019.jpg

20120323154816.jpg

20120323154840.jpg

20120323154853.jpg

20120323154915.jpg

20120323161224.jpg

Edited by Simon-S14

That is awesome. That right there is the difference between a $400 manifold and a top quality manifold.

Love this thread. Between your awesome wiring, those engine covers, that manifold, and all the other goodies, this is a great read.

thanks mate.. comments like that make it worth while haha.. we have done some serious hours on this car lately... trying to get it all finished and ready for a hill climb event next weekend (something non drift related!!)

did cooler pipes today, now i can weld no worries but havent had much alloy practice turns out i defo need more prac haha. i designed the pipe work and got Decs from garage 7 to weld it for me after i got frustrated with not being able to pull a decent weld haha.

heres another pic.

20120324171218.jpg

its the same car man :P

yeah the manifold burnt the paint off the strut tower... i wrapped and ceramic coated the shit out of it all but still got hot with the hard time i gave it

Yeah minor lapse in brain function there :P i meant new build LOL

Its certainly looking the goods, cant wait to see how it performs... If its anything like your last setup it should be crazy :thumbsup: Its come a long way!!

another solid 7 hours spent on it... been crazy the amount of work that i have put into this along with Decs from Garage 7. got ready to get it all started and straight away as soon as i put oil in it noticed it was leaking like a mofo from the rear main seal... arrrrg thats so annoying! is a brand new seal too and i was carefull putting it on too. so f**k knows what the go there is.

anyway primed it up.. took 2 solid mins and 2 batteries of cranking with plugs out to get oil flowing thro everything and pressure to build, i was worried for a min there. Soon as pressure was up i plugged in the coilpacks and injectors and then went to start it and it fired up straight away! i was shocked haha. needed a tad more fuel to idle smooth and once that was done it starts and idles better then it ever has and its not even tuned! base map is pretty close i reckon haha. Sounds AMAZING!

20120326191149.jpg

20120326211711.jpg

20120326214514.jpg

20120326214524.jpg

well.. as it turns out the rear main may not be leaking after all but the rear of the head/cam cover, dripping down thro the bell housing.

another solid day/night of work... have spent pretty much 3pm til 10pm every night including whole days sat and sundays working on it... feeling rather drained and burnt out but its very close now... should be ready for tunes on thursday. So far its promising... sounds f**king unreal!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...