Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got two of the 16" spal high performance fans that flow over 3000 cfm air each... so a potential 6000 cfm air flow. overkill much? probably but thats the idea... this cooling system would be right at home in a burnout car soon :)

mounting them on the radiator in this sort of shroud, excuse my MS paint skills..

2b6d.jpg

I do agree with mungy.

Pull air from the quarter panels.

I read a build up thread on a GTR that had done the same thing as you. They cam to the conclusion that using the quarter glass as the air inlet was the bes.

They made up full carbon fibre ducting from each side into a main funnel of the rad. Fan was mounted underneath the rad in a pull config.

Not sure about the above design there simmo, I think for a rear setup pushing air through the rad won't be as effective as pulling it through as you will create some turbulence before the air goes through the radiator slowing it down, you should mount the fans underneath the rad and have the rad COMPLETLEY sealed between the fans and the ducting to get the best flow through the rad.

the fans are pulling through the rad.. that pic is just inverted thats all.. and yes its completely sealed.

kitto, i know about that red GTR in the uk that your referring to.. its brilliant stuff. at same time theres no reason why air being fed from the roof wouldnt work as its a constant high pressure zone when straight or sideways.

Don't mind the caps lol, I phone seems to think it knows best, yes you are right it is a high pressure zone but doing it that way will make your fans work harder than if we took the air from the quarter panels, think of it this way if air is basically a much thinner lighter version of water and if you were drifting under water which way would help the water flow to the radiator easier?

to be honest i may end up doing both side vents and top roof vent to supplement it cause i need all the air flow i can get. I need some ducts or vents made for my rear 1/4 windows.. anyone able to assist with that?

not sure about your theory on high air pressure making the fans work harder.. if the air pressure is higher due to ram air effect then fans will most likely be off due to the large amounts of cooling air flowing in. and besides think of all the factory themo fan cars with their rads in the front getting ram air from high pressure air

Simon, can you give us a quick review of your front susp set up?

Cheers

Justin

parts are GKtech knuckles which Garage7 modified the steering arm to my spec, we then drilled out the bolt holes and fitted longer bolts (these were prototype knuckles, the production ones have this already done) we also ran a weld on the join to secure it. i wont be changing the steering arm every 5 mins so i'd prefer it to be solid.

coilovers are BC ER with 8kg fronts

LCA are OEM s14 lengthened 30 mm with a recessed area to allow the steering arm to travel more

Tie rods are off the shelf OEM replacement parts, Tie rod ends are my own design

Bolt on rack spacers are my own design. allows 20mm extra rack travel

Castor rods are offset GKtech items

Swaybar is stock.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m only posting this cause I thought I had seen a bad review on these somewhere before. Any feedback? Would you guys recommend that if I do buy these I send em to RC to have em checked before installing. Or any other suggestions?   https://www.ebay.com/itm/114009965865?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JDl-15yLQ8C&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=QTzlFXB1S-S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
×
×
  • Create New...