Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

did stadium drift on sat... had issues with a broken coilover and i didnt even get to do one lap :( :(

Dec's from Garage 7 let me share his car for pro class... good thing we didnt battle each other hahaha

Video here on my FB

and pics from the day

HERE http://www.lateshift.com.au/archives/2863

DSC_0038.jpg

Edited by Simon-S14

thats an origin wing? My mates drift car has one the same. we put it on a circuit car on the weekend and it made a huge difference. we data loged the canges and he was able to accelerate much faster out of corners.

yep origin GT carbon. works very well. when i did the time attack day at mallala i was able to push hard on the fastest corner on the track.. a right hander at around 180 kph... normally you'd use partial throttle and the rear would feel light.. with the wing on i can keep it pinned and the rear of the car stays planted. downside is the boot is very warped lol

Just read through the whole build great work done on it and awesome drifting.

Just got a question with your surge tank do you have an enclosure for it to pass scruteneering or dont you need one? I just put mine in so trying find out if i need one or not.

When do they consider it sealed for exp. With your s14 is it considered sealed off in standard form or do you have to physically go and seal up every gap in the boot?

Also with your nismo diff install was it pretty much just put the centre in using the shims you had or did you have to muck around with it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...