Jump to content
SAU Community

S14 With Neo Rb25 Drift Car.


Recommended Posts

i reckon its still possible to do it with the neo intake plenumn..coolant temp sensor can be swapped.. aac valves still operate as a 12V solenoid. throttle body can be swapped for an R33 one. etc

Edited by Simon-S14
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i reckon its still possible to do it with the neo intake plenumn..coolant temp sensor can be swapped.. aac valves still operate as a 12V solenoid. throttle body can be swapped for an R33 one. etc

Yeah if you swapped the TPS you could do it, more the plumbing I was concerned about, not sure how different everything shapes up, lengths etc. Would need to change the injector loom though as the plugs are no doubt different.

Edited by Rolls
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah the TPS's are interchangeable.. i put a 33 TB on my neo manifold, neo TPS fits straight on. i do like the neo intake manifold tho..the runners are a lot better shape then the 33 one. but both do the same job really lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am using all R32 loom up to the ignitor, I chopped the old plug off and used the R34 coils that have the ignitor built in and wired a nice new deutsch plug on the end removing the ignitor, plug looks better than factory! about $35 for all the pins etc but I know it will last forever now.

Using rb20det R32 ecu with a nistune module, R34 cas rewired (pin out is different) 1-4 2-3 3-4 4-1, Z32 afm and S1 r33 intake manifold with aux air valve, throttle body, tps etc. Basically looks like S1 rb25det everything with r34 coils.

Try and get a complete R33 intake/fuel setup etc as the r34 sensors etc are all different, different coolant lines etc, different fuel rail and injector loom, so have no idea how it would all mount up.

Cheers for the cas info rolls...

If I get there.. I'll be using the whole rb20 loom and ign, re-wiring the cas plug and adapting the mechanicals/sensors to the new manifolds.

If the 25/30 slapper fails I just built, I'll get a stagea neo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

absolutly! the best part of modded knuckles is the reduction of ackerman which means u can travel at angle, faster, as the front tyres aren't scrubbing out

It still looks pretty wrong in still shots!!! :nyaanyaa: It looks like the suspension has failed LOL

But i bet it makes a hell of a difference when sliding, not that you needed any help :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just read all 22 pages, awesome build mate, reading this makes me want to get started on mine sooner. Good stuff!

So how did the gtx go compared to the non gtx?

Also whats the reason for the r33 TB instead of the r34 one?

Good work mate! :cheers:

Edited by phat_man
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brand new r34 gtt box 
    • What is the go to gearbox these days for a RWD RB? Back in the day VG TT boxes were cheap and strong. Seems they are as expensive as an RB25 box these days. What are the options without remortgaging the house? 
    • Define "Nissan big brakes". You just mean standard R34 4 pots? And...it's not even the offset you need to worry about. It's really a detail of how much clearance there is between the caliper and the back of the spoke/face, which is affected more by the design of the spoke than it is by the offset. If you think about it....take any wheel, say a 19x8 that does fit and clears the caliper. Then add or subtract an inch of wheel on the outside, without changing anything else. You have changed the offset by half an inch, but not changed the clearance situation at all. Same for if you add or subtract an inch from the inside edge. The way for you to work this out is to take a wheel off the car, grab a straight edge and a ruler or two, and start to measure the distances from the wheel mounting face on the hub to the outer face of the caliper, and the outer diameter (that faces the barrel of the wheel) of the caliper. Armed with these dimensions and any other measurement that grabs your fancy while you are there, you can then go to the seller of the wheels and do the reverse measurements from the wheel's mounting face and see if there will be clearance to the caliper. There really should be. I have 17x8 RPF1s +35 clearing the caliper face by a finger tip. Those wheels do have pretty thin spokes with some curvature.... but then so do most wheels to suit Jap cars.
    • So I’ve got a r34 sedan that I managed to get green stickered, meaning I need to go through government approved wof station for my car to be allowed back on the road for some reason my car is certed for 19x8 rims.. I need these wheels  does anyone know what offset will be fine to clear Nissan big brakes? I saw 35et for sale near me, I can’t drive the car to test fit or risk being fined ..   I searched heaps online couldn’t find anywhere..
    • Okay, with all that being said about sloppy blowing from twins, I happily acknowledge the superiority of a single turbo setup on the RB; however, I still plan on double trouble.  I know the -9s were quite popular for some time because they seemed to meet that sweet spot between the -7s and 5s, would introducing VCAM and/or stroking to 2.8L provide the additional displacement/flow to push twins closer to the 500-600 goal?  Does it make more sense for a daily to just do an engine overhaul, slap some -7s on it and enjoy a bit more reliable power?  Has anyone driven a mine's overhauled and tuned engine?  I know they certainly don't approach the power numbers that you drag monsters do down under, but for daily street usage, I just want it to be fun and healthy.
×
×
  • Create New...