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Grind them off, drill them out. Repair any rust on the other side. Start again from scratch. -
Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy. Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued) NEW $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre NEW $1300 Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser NEW $2000 Haltech Elite 2500 NEW $2500 Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR USED $1400 Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR USED $1400 Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU USED $1000 HKS EVC 6 USED $600 Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller. USED $350 TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump NEW $100 Fujitsubo Super Ti exhaust USED $2700 Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust USED $2000 Trust stainless steel front pipe USED $1000 Apex’I super suction kit USED $400 BC BR coilovers USED $600 Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED $300 Garret 2860-5 turbos – one good, one needs reco USED $1000 Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement NEW $450 Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat USED (mint) $5000 Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2 USED $1000 Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler USED $900 Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted) USED $900 Nismo front indicator (clear) USED $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator USED $500 Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos USED $500 Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED $800 Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar USED $500 Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes USED $400 Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother. PM for pics. Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense. -
Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on -
By TurboTapin · Posted
You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. -
By DatsunBanana · Posted
Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
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