Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

k ive just finished fitting 5 stud off my black ceffy onto my white and had to fit another set of s14 lca's coz my old ones were bent from crash,

after removing old arms i noticed the s14 ones i had purchased wernt quite the same as the ones off my old car, i fit them anyway only to find

theres a heap more wheel track and i can adjust more neutral toe into the factory tie rods as the joints nearly fall off, definite no no, anyway

around this without using extra lock spacers or changing my whole rack? ive read that s14 tie rods cant be used as the threads are different,

but i could be wrong, any help would be smashing

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291098-issues-with-tie-rods/
Share on other sites

coz im using s14 hubs i need s14 lca's, the lenth if the ball joint is longer on the s14 arms an has to be that length so u can get the nut all the way tight

the nugget who sold me this setup originally had stocker ceffy arms dangerously hanging from the hubs, apparently i can get longer rod ends, looking at available options

coz im using s14 hubs i need s14 lca's, the lenth if the ball joint is longer on the s14 arms an has to be that length so u can get the nut all the way tight

the nugget who sold me this setup originally had stocker ceffy arms dangerously hanging from the hubs, apparently i can get longer rod ends, looking at available options

I'm using s13 lcas with s14 ball joints and a32 tierod ends.

I need to find a better ends though. I break one about once a month drifting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
    • February update 🙂 We managed to get the very last 1/18th "Extra Scale" cars stock available from bookstores in Kyoto. These are actually the last ones and will not be restocked again! Hachette Collections Japan have not decided on a release date for these or other models in the series, so for the time being these are all there are available new.  These are showing up on Yahoo auctions at inflated prices already (especially the Celica and NSX) so get yours now at a very reasonable price before they disappear! Stock quantities: NA1 Honda NSX - 1 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1990-na1-honda-nsx 1973 Toyota Celica LB 2000GT - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1973-toyota-celica-lb-2000gt 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1968-mazda-cosmo-sport 1970 KPGC10 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-R - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1970-kpgc10-nissan-skyline-2000gt-r
    • When you say basic rebuild, you mean an oem rebuild?
×
×
  • Create New...