Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people with aftermarket wheels what offset wheels do you have? +25,+0+17 etc

Im thinking ill put on +17 wheels has anyone got pics of a car with +17 offset wheels on it? I just want to know if they will sit just inside or level with the guard?

Also with lowering does anyone make superlows for r30s? rang burson and king can only do low. I want lower than that..

Cheers

Marc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291109-offset-and-lowering/
Share on other sites

Kings make lows, and any lower than that is just asking for trouble...

get custom coilovers made so you can atleast have height adjustment

the super lows would be a stop gap only, ill try to get another

Set of S13 coilovers for this car as iv done with my car in NZ its far cheaper than making them

Also low springs are not low enough!! Lol sorry but you guys don’t lower your cars

here enough! I want it sitting NZ low or Japan

low like this (im aware it will need a sump gaurd)

1197814861.jpg

And that brings me to wheel offset will +17 offset wheels be ok? this is the most important question

Your a ledgend mate yeah they should be just fine the wheels iv got ar 17x8 +15(sorry) so they should look almost the same as yours do im guessing i dont really know on offsets how exactly they work

The outside of your wheels will sit 12 to 13mm further in than those shown in the pic.

Hey HR31_RB20DET

Seen your car on R31 forums and think it's one of the nicest I've seen.

Are those wheels Rota RB's in 17" ?

Where did you buy them as they'd look great on my DR30.

The outside of your wheels will sit 12 to 13mm further in than those shown in the pic.

Weird ?

how can that be if the standard offset is +25? standard wheels dont sit 21 mm closer than those r31 wheels do, do they?

well i can space them if i have to or want a wider look

The outside of your wheels will sit 12 to 13mm further in than those shown in the pic.

Hey HR31_RB20DET

Seen your car on R31 forums and think it's one of the nicest I've seen.

Are those wheels Rota RB's in 17" ?

Where did you buy them as they'd look great on my DR30.

Thanks, yeah they are the Rota RB's. I bought them in a group buy off the 31 forum, not sure if the group buy is still an on going thing. Maybe try sending Fatz a PM as he gets them through Otomoto at a cheaper price.

Link to the original group buy: Rota Group Buy

You may want to study how wheel offsets work otherwise it could be hit and miss. There good info out there... even calculators to make the process a little easier.

An 8 wide and 8.5 wide wheel will sit at different distances even if the offset is the same.

Weird ?

how can that be if the standard offset is +25? standard wheels dont sit 21 mm closer than those r31 wheels do, do they?

well i can space them if i have to or want a wider look

your wheels are +15 while the ones in the pic are +4.

This mearns they will sit 11 mm inwards,then your wheels are 12.7mm narrower that the RB's so the outside edge of your wheels will sit in half of that equaling total 17mm further in (sorry my maths were off a little this morning)

You may want to study how wheel offsets work otherwise it could be hit and miss. There good info out there... even calculators to make the process a little easier.

An 8 wide and 8.5 wide wheel will sit at different distances even if the offset is the same.

I did a quick search, and found this one, it has pictures that move with the changes, it may make it easier to see what you want.

http://www.morfed.net/wheel-offset-calculator/

http://www.rims-n-tires.com/rt_specs.jsp <---This one looks good.

this may also be useful, if you wanting to change rim sizes, but keep the same speedo reading

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Nigel

Edited by noddle
your wheels are +15 while the ones in the pic are +4.

This mearns they will sit 11 mm inwards,then your wheels are 12.7mm narrower that the RB's so the outside edge of your wheels will sit in half of that equaling total 17mm further in (sorry my maths were off a little this morning)

huh? im talking about the cars factory wheels being + 25 offset, compared to the +4 offsets.

thus meaning the factory wheels are 21mm inside! plus the factory wheels will only be 6"ish wide so there for being close to 4cm inside what those plus 4 offsets are! thats just alot! i cant seeing there be that sort of difference, and those +4 wheels still sit inside the gaurds its not like they look wide they just look normal with a nice dish.

does that make sense?

huh? im talking about the cars factory wheels being + 25 offset, compared to the +4 offsets.

thus meaning the factory wheels are 21mm inside! plus the factory wheels will only be 6"ish wide so there for being close to 4cm inside what those plus 4 offsets are! thats just alot! i cant seeing there be that sort of difference, and those +4 wheels still sit inside the gaurds its not like they look wide they just look normal with a nice dish.

does that make sense?

Actually the front rims sit outside of the guard slightly, If I had no camber front and rear they would hit the guards, fronts running around 1.5 degrees camber and the rear has 3 degrees.

Pic without tyres fitted.

IMG_0909Medium.jpg

A comparison pic, same height and camber with 17x7 +20 all round,

DSC_0076_800.jpg

Actually the front rims sit outside of the guard slightly, If I had no camber front and rear they would hit the guards, fronts running around 1.5 degrees camber and the rear has 3 degrees.

Pic without tyres fitted.

IMG_0909Medium.jpg

A comparison pic, same height and camber with 17x7 +20 all round,

DSC_0076_800.jpg

Good info !

I wouldn't even bother with any of the Aus/NZ brands like Cobra or King, Japan is the best place to go if you want lowering springs for a DR that are to your tastes... but be warned you may end up shortening your shocks in the process.

as for offset I run 15x7 +15 on the rear and 15x6.5 +20 up front, however due to the style of rim (reverse mesh) I've had to space the fronts by 5mm to clear the brakes. Tyres are also a bit on the 'balloon' side being 215/60 rear and 205/60 front.

here's mine on its "low" Japanese springs, I could have gone lower but why sacrifice ride comfort and bash the sump every time you go out for a drive?

2810578468_7db7c76c5e.jpg

Cool cheers

how ever ill upgrade the car to coil overs (s13 for the ride height in the time being ill cut them if they are progresive its no loss, also im getting a set of these what do you guys think?

wheel_29.jpg

anyway they are good offset and i can get them new for cheap

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...