Advice For Boost Controller

[kikutaknight]

I'm looking at getting boost control for my car, but i'm not sure which options to go for. what i want is really simple. i don't want something too flashy and expensive.

Requirements:

 - Have 2 settings for boost (Off - so it's basically NA, and performance - probably around 12psi for my stock turbo)

 - Able to switch between the two

Looking for advice on what is the simplest and cheapest way to achieve this.

Thanks.

[mad082]

well you could go something like a turbosmart dual stage boost controller. this will allow you to set the 2 boost levels and flick between the 2 with the flick of a switch.

as for having the boost "off", that can't be done. the minimum boost pressure you can run is set by the wastegate pressure, and in the case of a r33 it is about 5psi. so you could have your minimum boost at 5psi and then your high boost at 12 psi.

[Ultimategtr]

MS-IBC. Piss easy to install/tune.

[kikutaknight]

as for having the boost "off", that can't be done. the minimum boost pressure you can run is set by the wastegate pressure, and in the case of a r33 it is about 5psi. so you could have your minimum boost at 5psi and then your high boost at 12 psi.

Is it possible to get an after market waste gate that could lower ur pressure more?

[JonnoHR31]

why the hell would you want to do that. buy a turbotech manual boost controller, set to 12psi and forget about it. if your ever in some sort of weird scenario where you need no boost then simply disconnect the actuator rod from the wastegate flap

[gotRICE?]

Is it possible to get an after market waste gate that could lower ur pressure more?

Yes.

Its called, Nike Air.

Use your right foot to control boost.

[mad082]

Is it possible to get an after market waste gate that could lower ur pressure more?

possibly, but i doubt it.

also a turbo'd engine running at 0 boost will be much slower than a NA engine because the turbo engine has lower compression. basically it would be like driving an excel, and i'm not joking. it would literally be putting out the same power as a stock lancer, but in a car that weighs a few hundred kg more.

also you want your wastegate pressure to be as close to the pressure you want to run as this means that the boost controller has to only do a small amount to keep the pressure reliable and stable.

[kikutaknight]

 

also you want your wastegate pressure to be as close to the pressure you want to run as this means that the boost controller has to only do a small amount to keep the pressure reliable and stable.

can you adjust ur wastegate pressure directly? i thought the whole point of a boost controller, especially the manual ones, is because changing the pressure on ur wastegate isn't possible.

[paulr33]

as mad said, the wastegate wether internal or external, the spring inside that, is the lowest pressure you can run

that is, if you floor it, it will run as much boost as that spring allows. so if its a 5 psi spring

when you floor it, and pressure builds up, the spring moves at 5psi, so your minimum boost is 5psi

the boost pressure wont go past the spring level rise unless.........................

you have boost controller to bleed more pressure, that is, fake the signal to the spring to say to it, hey theres really only 3psi here, don't open

boost climbs to 5psi, hey spring, theres really only 3psi here, dont open, boost climbs to 11psi, hey spring dont open, theres really only 3psi here

climbs to 13psi hey spring, theres 5psi here, open

so the spring in the wastegate either internal/external controls your minimum boost on full load

if you want to run 0psi / aka N/A mode then you need to wire the wastegate open

but the trick and issue here is, you wont ever build boost until that gate closes, and it will be sluggish

[ARTZ]

why the hell would you want to do that. buy a turbotech manual boost controller, set to 12psi and forget about it.

Works for me...

[mad082]

 

can you adjust ur wastegate pressure directly? i thought the whole point of a boost controller, especially the manual ones, is because changing the pressure on ur wastegate isn't possible.

you can buy adjustable wastegates, however they are still going to have a base pressure of atleast 5psi.

may i ask why you want to be able to run low pressure? is it for fuel economy? and when do you plan on running the high pressure? is it only at the drags and track days? if it is only for drag and track days, then buy yourself a cheap boost controller, set it to the desired boost level and just keep it in the glovebox and just put it on when you go to the track.

if it is for fuel economy, then just buy the controller, set it to the pressure you want and just drive sensibly. the boost pressure will only build when you put your foot down. if you drive at low amounts of throttle then you can drive a turbo car without even making any positive pressure. if you only want to run 5psi, then just use your foot to control the pressure. the further you put your foot down the higher the pressure. if you are cruising along at 60kmh in 3rd or 4th gear, you could have a 30psi wastegate on there but that doesn't mean you will be running 30psi at the speed. at a set speed that you would be doing around town you won't even be making any boost pressure.

[kikutaknight]

it was for fuel economy, yes. it's sounding like the best thing to do would be to buy the turbotech. then just drive with low revs for economy, put my foot down when i wanna go fast.

however, some people say manual boost controllers are too dangerous for skylines. the turbo blows up too easily.

apparently turbo tech is good for this because it's spring and ball and prevents spikes and creep. but i'd like to know ur thoughts.

[mad082]

i ran one, as have hundreds of other people. it's the high boost levels (above about 12psi) that are bad for the stock turbo, not the type of controller.

anyone that says a manual controller is bad for a skyline needs to be ignored from now on

[JonnoHR31]

aslong as you dont buy it, wind it right up, ignore the boost gauge and drive it endlessly at stupid boost levels its not gonna suddenly die on you. get a turbotech, put it in and make very small adjustments until you get 11-12psi or .7-.8bar. dont rely on the standard boost gauge either

[kikutaknight]

dont rely on the standard boost gauge either

so which gauge are you saying to rely on? the one built in with ur tachometer that goes from +7 to -7 (+7 being just under 15psi), or the one attached to ur pillar?

[gotRICE?]

so which gauge are you saying to rely on? the one built in with ur tachometer that goes from +7 to -7 (+7 being just under 15psi), or the one attached to ur pillar?

If you have a boost gauge on your pillar, chances are its not the stock one is it?

[kikutaknight]

If you have a boost gauge on your pillar, chances are its not the stock one is it?

i don't know =_= like...just about every skyline i see has the same gauges on their pillar.

[ECR-033]

Perth must not be too strict on defecting if everyone has pillar guages.

you can run your car on any boost you want and have the same fuel economy if your driving sensible. i highly doubt your car is hitting 12psi under 3000rpm.

[gotRICE?]

Perth must not be too strict on defecting if everyone has pillar guages.

you can run your car on any boost you want and have the same fuel economy if your driving sensible. i highly doubt your car is hitting 12psi under 3000rpm.

It might be possible.. mine makes 10.5psi at 2250rpm...

Basically, forget the whole boost control idea to lower boost! Just moderate your right foot and you can run as little boost as you want.

If your plan was to lower the boost yet still floor it all the time, then your dreaming. If you dont want it to boost, dont load it up so much! Its as simple, and as free as that.

[mad082]

Perth must not be too strict on defecting if everyone has pillar guages.

you can run your car on any boost you want and have the same fuel economy if your driving sensible. i highly doubt your car is hitting 12psi under 3000rpm.

why not? i was hitting 14psi at around 2700rpm in my 33 on the stock turbo