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OK I won't bother with the story, but seems I have some wheels that are much to wide to be allowed (19x10).

Now these are only on the rear of the S1, and at the moment (we did a test fit) it rubs nastily on the strut and spring.

I'm not much good with suspension so I need some help here.

I have a set of tein coilovers to go on, but after I do that, what am I going to need to do to make these wheels fit?

Mates and I are seeming to think wheel spacer and then guard rolling/flaring. So then I must ask - is this right? Where do I go about acquiring spacers and who/how do I pump the guards so the wheels don't jut out steamroller style?

Halp!

Thanks.

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well...assuming you are going to keep those rims.

you need to move the wheel out fromthe hub, so you need spacers. the distance you need to move it depends how bad it rubs on the strut.

once you have moved it out far enough to clear the strut you may have rubbing issues on the guard, if so you will need to roll or flare the guard. or if you are happy to compromise you could run a smaller tyre on the rim and run a too much camber so that it tucks inside the guard on bump - but of course this would adversely affect handling and tyre wear

10" rims can fit on the back of a 33 gtst if they have the correct offset, so it's not impossible.

let me know the offset of the wheels and i'll tell you what you exactly what you'll need to do to make them fit :D

should be listed on the back of the wheel somewhere - either on a manufacturers sticker or cast into the back of the spokes etc

Ok on inspection of the inside of the rim I cant find anything that hints on offset, and it turns out they're 19x9.5

They are second hand so there's no sticker, but theres little random numbers all over the place, still nothing that I could reliably call an offset - is there a way I can measure it?

The tyres (need new ones) are 275s, could anything be gained by putting 265 or 255s on them?

Thanks

you'll struggle with the tyre widths. 9.5's are a tight fit on the rear of (auto) stageas and you need about a +15 offset for them to not scrub the strut but then they'll be poking a little bit

because they are 19's you'll probably want to look at a 245/35 for them to help tuck them under your guards once you space them out to clear the strut (i want to assume they are in the mid 30's offset)

you can measure the offset by looking at this diagram

WheelOffset.jpg

don't forget offset is measured in mm and rim width in inches

what numbers are on the back of the wheels?

There is 24 and 45 stamped lazily inside the spokes.

The cast there is a 3|5: ┴3 and on the inner hub bit on the inside there is 30 and 35 cast.

They're most recently off a GTS4 so Im thinking mid 30s offset

Mike are they allowed to poke out like that? I thought it was illegal?

technically my rubber is covered BUT the tyres are (what would be considered) too narrow for the rim (although 100% safe) and i am out of track so would be considered illegal unfortunately

if you want something legal, but a nice fit, get some 18x9+30's. same specs as 34 gtr wheels (if there is the option get 9+15 front to make them fill the guards all round :D )

at the end of the day, to make the 9.5's fit you will require some stretch, some poke or a combination of both

Any tips on where to get spacers?

I'm currently having a similar issue with some slight scrubbing at the rear under heavy load.

in this thread it explains that you should only use flanged spacers;

http://www.twincam.info/index.php?showtopi...mp;#entry375195

I think I'm gonna go with these:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Buddyclub-Wheel-Spa...id=p3286.c0.m14

You need spacers that have the right sized bore that are flanged or have locator rings or are hubcentric - different words for the same thing - to make sure they are centred on the hub and not just located by the wheel nuts. As well in NZ they need low volume certification - don't know the legal position in Australia. here are some examples:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-246008743.htm

or

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-246616324.htm

or

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-245710903.htm

note that 5 x 114.3 come in different bore sizes so make sure you get the right one.

I have a set of 25mm spacers on the front to make it the same track as the rear. If you are buying brand new mags you may be able to acheive this by having different offsets front and rear.

same problem with mine

20x8's lowered around 2.5"

245 tyres on.

i had major rear scrubbing issues after putting 20mm bolt on spacers

soloution was to roll the guards

im a tightass and wanted it fixed so i just got a hammer and a metal round pipe..

thank god for the plastic arx guards

oddy man do you realise that by changing your track width you will have to get it engineered because any mod that changes the track with is illegal and must be inspected and certifyed by an engineer .

your best bet mate would be to sell them rims and go and get the corect ones that fit right without using spacers , from my experience spacers CAN cause the wheel nuts to come loose and fall off , and yes i have seen it on a few occasions happen to diffrent cars too . personaly i think rims look out of place when they pertrude out of the gaurd and also it would be a night mare trying not to scuff them on gutters .

I see 3 options

1. sell rims and find ones that fit

2. Fit spacers on the rear to clear guards, fit 235's or maybe 245 tyres and have to roll the guards a fair bit

3. You can change the rear cradle, use a non hicas one from a gts4, s14 or s15. This will reduce the rear track by approx 40-50mm. This will probably stop the tyres rubbing on the guards, but you will need some spacers to clear the struts. Use the bare crdel only and reuse all your susp arms and diff

I am currently going down this path, running 19x9.5's +12 and probably 235/30/19 tyres as they are the closet thing to the standard rolling diameter.

Cradle cost anywhere from $50-200

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