Jump to content
SAU Community

Evo 6 Or Dc5r


blackeagle299
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

65L? Doubt it, a full fill for me from low fuel light (which had been on for about 30km) to full was 54L, which would indicate a 55ish litre tank.

And also remember, ADM DC5R is hugely different to the JDM version (which can't be imported). Aus Spec R's where basically the "spoiler and cool bodykit" version, where the JDM ones where stripped out, more power versions like the original R.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

65L? Doubt it, a full fill for me from low fuel light (which had been on for about 30km) to full was 54L, which would indicate a 55ish litre tank.

Yeah nah.

When the light comes on you have around the 10-15L mark left in reserve.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you're worried about fuel, then go get a yaris. Sorry to sound mean but its the truth.. performance cars burn fuel thats all there is to it

My mate has an Evo 8 and he gets around 250km a tank i have a r34 and i only get max 300 a tank.. but thats due to tuning and how we drive etc...

In reply to your question .. An evo 6 TME would be better than a DC5R.. but by the sounds of it you dont want to spend money on maintence so go get the dc5r

damn man! only 300km? i always fill up at around the 480km mark and thats still with fuel left in the tank!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having worked for honda and i own a evo 6

i whould go the integra just for sale value and so on

evo 6 have droped in price heaps in the last year and if you want get a evo 5 you can import them now and they are even cheaper evo 6 are fun but they have turned into the new WRX alot of people buying them and thrashing them treating them like shit thinking that they have become a good driver overnight due to the car doing all the work

if you want i will sell you my evo 6 HAHA comes with a blown motor but comes with a BC 2.4L stroker kit and HKS inletmanifold HAHA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having worked for honda and i own a evo 6

i whould go the integra just for sale value and so on

evo 6 have droped in price heaps in the last year and if you want get a evo 5 you can import them now and they are even cheaper evo 6 are fun but they have turned into the new WRX alot of people buying them and thrashing them treating them like shit thinking that they have become a good driver overnight due to the car doing all the work

if you want i will sell you my evo 6 HAHA comes with a blown motor but comes with a BC 2.4L stroker kit and HKS inletmanifold HAHA

Thx for the offer bro, but i think i would go for something stock. Dont think i have the skills to to handle a 2.4 now lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also a TME will hold its value better if you dont mod it like basic mods are fine just keep stock parts as once you start modding them they seem to go for the same price as a gsr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also a TME will hold its value better if you dont mod it like basic mods are fine just keep stock parts as once you start modding them they seem to go for the same price as a gsr

i guess aftermarket cold air intake, catback, front pipe, boost controller, coilovers and wheels are still in the basic mods list yea ? wont be touching much bout the engine. And just want to know, will the price drop alot after the car went for track ? Thx for any comment

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i guess aftermarket cold air intake, catback, front pipe, boost controller, coilovers and wheels are still in the basic mods list yea ? wont be touching much bout the engine. And just want to know, will the price drop alot after the car went for track ? Thx for any comment

+1 for those mods and yes the price will drop if you sell it with all the mods on it IMO.

Or you won't get back the same amount of money you put in, but in some cases ppl do get the money back on the mods.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I test drove a new one of these (HARD) a couple of years ago.

Had just stepped out of a Renault Sport CUp Clio which blew me away on it's handling.

Although the Honda revved to 8,400 rpm and gave me a head ache after 20mins of driving (noise from behind firewall, not exhaust), the handling was deplorable and the interior was basic for the $ asked.

I've never been in an Evo 6, but the Honda handled like my old Corolla. The end.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I test drove a new one of these (HARD) a couple of years ago.

Had just stepped out of a Renault Sport CUp Clio which blew me away on it's handling.

Although the Honda revved to 8,400 rpm and gave me a head ache after 20mins of driving (noise from behind firewall, not exhaust), the handling was deplorable and the interior was basic for the $ asked.

I've never been in an Evo 6, but the Honda handled like my old Corolla. The end.

Thanks for the advise bro. yea agree with the handling, FWD cant make much special on handling, and i guess the dc5r is now out from my choise because might quite hard to get one with 20k budget :)

Edited by blackeagle299
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The question is not what the resale value is, its what gets your heart racing the most :)

I never buy a car with the thought in my mind that i have to baby it or be scared of it because itll end up with someone else.

Hence the 25 000 dollar, 13 year old R33 in my driveway :thumbsup:

Who cares how old it is or how much someone else is gonna pay for it.

Its about how much fun you have in it while its yours :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right.  I'll try my best at a concise "bring you up to speed" on stuff that may be missing here - obviously open to questions or further input from others as relevant. Here's a datalog from a responsive turbo setup with electronic boost control being used a bit, to keep it simple I've marked 3 points of interest.  All of these charts are on the same time scale on the X-axis, so you can reference what engine rpm is doing in the top graph, boost and EMAP (exhaust backpressure) in the second graph, and turbo rpm in the bottom graph. A) The turbo gets it's power from exhaust gas, and pumping air takes work.  As a result you can't just spin a turbo with a fixed amount of exhaust energy and expect it to keep spooling - the bigger the turbo (ie, the more air it can push) the more exhaust energy you need to drive it.   The most obvious ways of getting more exhaust energy are by adding displacement, adding boost, or adding rpm - but as you add any of these the turbo also needs to do a bit more work so there is a big balance of these things needed to even get to your target boost and sometimes that's not even possible. What you can see in step "A" is that there isn't enough engine rpm or boost to reach the level we want, so this is where "lag" is.  The dyno run continues and rpm increases, which gives enough energy to increase boost, which helps spool  the turbine speed up even more - so you can see that the rate that the boost (and turbo speed) are starting to ramp up faster than the engine rpm is, so turbo is really starting to wake up as the graph gets closer to point B....   B) At this point we've been able to reach the boost that is actually desired at this point.   To stop the boost from going further than this the wastegate will open and bypass gas past the turbine, meaning it doesn't continue accelerating at the point it was before but instead carry on at a more progressive rate which matches what the engine needs.   The wastegate will have a spring in it which is rated to a specific pressure where it will start bypassing, but electronic boost control (managed by the ECU) can adjust how much pressure the spring sees in order to allow some tunability on how much boost the wastegate actually sees, and therefore how much exhaust it bypasses.   The tune in this case stops boost from ramping up HARD at around 21-22psi just before 4000rpm, then as the rpm continue it allows boost to continue up to around 25psi higher in the rpm.   You can see the turbo speed fairly steadily increases through the rpm to ensure it's keeping up with the increasing airflow demand due to the engine speed being higher and boost being pretty steady.   If the boost dropped off after a point then you may see the turbo speed level off or even drop.   C) You can see that despite the boost pressure staying pretty flat here, the exhaust pressure is steadily increasing and at this stage has overtaken boost pressure.   This isn't unusual, and is largely as a result of the increasing energy needed by the turbo to pump more and more air to suit the needs of the engine as it revs out further.   There are a bunch of variables in regards to how much back pressure there will be on a given turbo etc, but its one of the factors we manage when sizing and tuning a turbo setup.   When exhaust back pressure starts exceeding boost pressure you will eventually start seeing signs that the turbo is running out, the engine gets less keen to make more power and it gets harder to raise boost further. In this case it's a fairly acceptable compromise for the power level (around 630kw on a 3litre engine with full boost by 4000rpm), but you'd not want to push it a lot harder than this.  The maximum speed rated for the compressor wheel on this setup is around 125,000rpm so you can see its starting to get close on that side as well - I feel like this kind of illustrates some of the turbo related things we both decide on how far to push, and are also limited to how far we can push depending on the parts combination. Hope this helps more than it confuses things  
    • For that influx of Spammers we had I made no pic posting and no PM's for first ten posts. This is group based and I've manually updated @Beanie to the Members group which will open up the images and PM's. 
    • Thx for the reassuring reply. I’ve got above legal clearance  going in for roadworthy Friday… fingers crossed it’s keeping me awake  bloody nanny state 
    • I was actually going to try and dig out a datalog with turbine speed and EMAP haha
    • Wait until @Lithium posts a compressor map and tries to explain what's going on. There is a strong possibility that the OP lives in a digital world and is not comfortable with analogue machines. A turbo is just about as analogue as it gets, with plenty of non-linear behaviours added in on top. Most of us who think we know how they work are actually only getting by on 2nd and 3rd order mental models that abstract away from the actual physics and bring it back to the sort of kindergarten level concepts we can hold in our heads. This is important when you need to hold 10 such concepts in your head at the same time. You need to reduce the complexity of the individual concepts to allow them to be simultaneously held and manipulated. Too much complexity in the base models makes it very difficult to make them work with each other mentally.
×
×
  • Create New...