Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are you completely missing the unit or do you have one that isn't working? The first option would be to rebuild the one you have. New ones are around $800 from memory.

What is wrong with the one you have and what symptoms does it exibit?

Are you completely missing the unit or do you have one that isn't working? The first option would be to rebuild the one you have. New ones are around $800 from memory.

What is wrong with the one you have and what symptoms does it exibit?

I actually don't have one but in need of one

I got the motor without it, so i need it to finish the install

i want the original part# so that i can order it from my local nissan dealer

  • 1 year later...

Old thread, but need to know if 23300-AA300 (which is for an E34 gtt) is the same part which is displayed as a subaru starter motor with the same part number??

23300-08U11

23300-08U15

23300-20P00

23300-20P05

23300-20P01

23300-AA300

These are all the part numbers for starter motors for RB25DET in R33 Skyline

  • 5 years later...

bumping this up, anyone know a decent starter motor available in Oz for the RB engines lately?

The Bosch motor BXM034N that is listed for skylines is definitely NOT suitable and Bosch tell me they don't actually make one for Skylines despite what it says on their page. Genuine Nissan is $700+, I hear nothing but bad things about the OEX brand, and can only find Auto 8 brand which looks like it will fit, but might be a bit cheap n nasty?

Several people have successfully fitted this starter motor but don't know if anyone stocks them in Aus:

https://www.circuit-sports.com/products/nissan-oe-replacement-starter-type-2-rb-motor

thanks Kiwi, they look alright actually.

Have ordered the only new starter I could find online in stock, which was Auto8 brand. Not 1000% on the quality but will see once it arrrivederci's, will get the oem one rebuilt if needed.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...