Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, on the way home just then i was giving it abit of stick, and then it started making noises and was struggling to reach high rpm so every time i tryed to reach rpm and making a struggling sound...current mod fmic and just got boost controller today, i didnt check the engine bay to look for loose pipping because its too dark. but im paranoid now..any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291327-wierd-noises-help/
Share on other sites

hey guys, on the way home just then i was giving it abit of stick, and then it started making noises and was struggling to reach high rpm so every time i tryed to reach rpm and making a struggling sound...current mod fmic and just got boost controller today, i didnt check the engine bay to look for loose pipping because its too dark. but im paranoid now..any ideas?

struggling sound?????? more info, check ur pipes, boost control hoses, remove controller, start from there, new cooler second hand, new cooler or second hand

just had alook at the engine bay seems fine, no pipes out. yer when i give it to it, it struggles to hit high revs. when i got it in hi boost it does it bad, but when i got it on off mode just a minor bit. wouldnt be coz i got stock ecu?

just had alook at the engine bay seems fine, no pipes out. yer when i give it to it, it struggles to hit high revs. when i got it in hi boost it does it bad, but when i got it on off mode just a minor bit. wouldnt be coz i got stock ecu?

Did you read what I posted? Also, how much boost are you running?

it only happens when i hit high boost, i read a few threads with similar problems and it results in coilpacks, but i dont want to buy them unless im 99% sure :S. by the way if you have faulty coil packs does that mean you get less km's from a tank? because ive been getting less km's recently

question guys, insted of making a new thread i thought id ask here. ive pretty much come to the conclusion my coil packs are on there way out. now im abit short on cash so i was thinking is it worth getting brand new nissan coil packs from justjap or should i save for yellow jackets. would the stock nissan coil packs handle my mods?

take it to a proffesionall

Sighh............ :laugh:

There are a couple wonderful tutorials in the DIY section about fixing coil packs yourself. Lowering the gap is a good idea too (on new plugs). Don't bother spending hundereds of $ until you have exhausted your $free.99 options first. DIY section. Search.

before you go looking at coils, pull your plugs out and see what gap they are and what condition they are in. if they are 1.1mm plugs and have been in there for quite a while they may have worn and the gap may be bigger than 1.1mm so just putting new plugs in will solve the problem and only cost you about $30.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...