Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Fail!

DSTROY

By DSTROY,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

DSTROY Grand Master

DSTROY

Posted
Posted

So with the help of Luke and a few others today we got the gearbox out of my car to try and find out what was behind the bad grinding sounds and gear selecting problems. As soon as the clutch came off the reason for the grinding sound was pretty clear. The clutch centre was rubbing on the bolt heads on the centre of the flywheel. Im not to sure what caused this to happen but im very happy that the clutch didn't explode at the time attack on monday as the result could have been pretty bad.

I'll have a look on here to see what i can find but if anyone has any hook ups with clutches let me know. Gonna go for a twin plate this time round, need some thing thats good for 300kw+

flywheel.jpg

clutch2.jpg

clutch.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

RubyRS4 Grand Master

RubyRS4

Posted
Posted

Woah! Lucky it didn't let go at the time attack.

Glad to hear you caught it just in time. Didn't look like it would have lasted much long.

and +1 to never seeing a clutch like that before. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/#findComment-4873255
Share on other sites
Race__24 Experienced

Race__24

Posted
Posted

Kubos motorsport, do good GENUINE Exedy clutches, all parts branded Exedy, not mix and match crap. Talk to him, very helpfull, good quality and great prices. There are some RB25/30s running these clutches, i'm pretty sure cubes was impressed with his.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/#findComment-4873314
Share on other sites
SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted
The clutch centre was rubbing on the bolt heads on the centre of the flywheel. Im not to sure what caused this to happen but im very happy that the clutch didn't explode at the time attack on monday as the result could have been pretty bad.

Pretty clear that the clutch centre let go 1st and then bowed out against the flywheel bolts......obviously bolts need to be replaced now regardless if they're still tight.

Seen clutches like that before....usually caused by hard launches or flat changing causing the centre to over flex.....also if it's excessively tight over the splines during release.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/#findComment-4873390
Share on other sites
Race__24 Experienced

Race__24

Posted
Posted

The springs probably bottomed out also, causeing shock loading which made it crack. I'm no expert on clutches but I know my metals, those cracks look like a combination of high temps and shock loading.

I was just saying the other day at vilis that i didn't like those clutches after a bad exerience I had with mine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/#findComment-4873437
Share on other sites
DSTROY Grand Master

DSTROY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i could probably get you an os for a decent price.

If you could find out that would be awesome, I'm after a twin plate to take 350-400rwkw and lots of track use. Also need it ASAP!

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/#findComment-4876533
Share on other sites
SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted

True twin plates are never going to be as good as a single for very quick gear changes as you're attempting to release 2 driven plates as opposed to 1.

However, we don't have a drag strip and grip racing doesn't require the lightning fast changes that drag racing does, hence why I went for the Coppermix Twin plate......which in actual fact, is not a true twin plate (ie. with intermediate plate) cause it uses a single sprung Boss Drive. The other reason I went this way is cause of the lighter diaphram that you can get away with and still get a greater clamping pressure.

I've never ever liked solid centre style driven plates or the metal button style ones either cause they're not forgiving as a daily driver. Also double diaphram pressure plates used to be the rage years ago but your left calf muscle needs to be bigger that your right, lol. Drivelines also hate these 3 style of setups.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/#findComment-4876582
Share on other sites
Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted

yeah I had one let go in similar fashion , opened up the pressure plate to find shrapnel inside it on my RX7, Aluminum flywheel / Center force racing clutch

make sure you check the run out on the flywheel, bet it could be borderline to thin?

also check the bearings on the input shaft ,always replace the center pilot bearing, you call it something else in OZ. but it goes into the crankshaft?

good time to swap out the seals on the input shaft as well ?

and if your real bored polish the casing to mirror finish..hahahah

sucks mate but least your floor doesnt have a hole in it from the flywheel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/#findComment-4877746
Share on other sites
Aberax Grand Master

Aberax

Posted
Posted (edited)
yeah I had one let go in similar fashion , opened up the pressure plate to find shrapnel inside it on my RX7, Aluminum flywheel / Center force racing clutch

make sure you check the run out on the flywheel, bet it could be borderline to thin?

also check the bearings on the input shaft ,always replace the center pilot bearing, you call it something else in OZ. but it goes into the crankshaft?

good time to swap out the seals on the input shaft as well ?

and if your real bored polish the casing to mirror finish..hahahah

sucks mate but least your floor doesnt have a hole in it from the flywheel

Scopot Bush?!

Edit: Damn word filter, i mean one of these - i bet the word filter messed with the link.

Edited by Aberax
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/#findComment-4877991
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Rezz
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By Rezz · Posted

      Starting with issues 1 - 5, we have already run into a problem...!  Issue #4 contained 2x front brake calipers, instead of 1 caliper and 1x steering knuckle. Will have to call DeAgostini on Monday to sort it out. Anyway here's some photos.  Issue #1 is the front bumper, headlights and number plate. Issue #2 is the front wheel (with "We produced with spartan air." text on the centre cap!) and tyre, the front lip spoiler and cylinder head cover with ignition coils under the centre cover... which will never be seen again. Issue #3 is the bonnet and cylinder head. Issue #4 is the front strut, brake disc (with laser etched metal discs) and brake caliper. I stopped here because of the issue with the missing steering knuckle.  Next update will be #5 - #10 in a few weeks.
    • Rezz
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By Rezz · Posted

      DeAgostini is one of a few companies that release quite large (the largest commonly available size actually) 1/8 scale models in a series of weekly issues over 100 - 110 instalments.  They release different models for different markets and DeAgostini Japan have release the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo last month. I've made two of these 1/8 scale sized cars (one an R35 GT-R from 2012 - 2014, the other I'm just about halfway through, a BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the 2Fast 2Furious movie) so when this R32 was announced there was no way I could ignore it as it's my favourite out of all Nissans.  Each issue costs around $20 so it costs about $2.2K when completed. I suppose it is very expensive for what it is, but the quality and details are really very good, and there are many "gimmicks" like fully functioning exterior and interior lights operated with a remote control, working steering, all doors/bonnet/boot/fuel lid open and close, the side mirrors fold in and it even has a speaker for the engine revving sounds when you turn the lights on.  Each issue comes with a magazine that tells the story of the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo from the first design stages of the BNR32 to Group A homologation and the various racing version that were run in the Japanese Group A and JGTC, and Australian Group A.  So I plan to update the build in this thread 5 issues at a time.  https://deagostini.jp/r32/?srsltid=AfmBOooKjxDc4EUK2rmXqMBPgyHfFJ24s4oEPJBNpnF-lFlsRoW0PE6P
    • Predator1
      Billet Merge Collector for manifold

      By Predator1 · Posted

      As per title.. has anyone used so far? Keen to hear results, comparisons. In the market for a new mani for my new turbo. Any issues cracking?
    • MBS206
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • joshuaho96
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
×
×
  • Create New...