Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all. I have recently upgraded my turbo from a .82 3540 to the bigger 1.06 housing. Feels one hell of a lot faster thats for sure.

At the same time i also had the offer to swap my Tial 44 to a Turbosmart 48mm gate as i was getting a bit of creep. Its in there now and i only got to drive it for the first time today.

Questions:

The manual pdf from turbosmart themselves gives completely different spring colours to the sizes when i measure them. Ie the spring that is plainly orange in their books should be Red. A friend also has a similar gate and has this same problem.

The spring in there at present is meant to be the 14psi spring, however my car is boosting happily to 21psi before i back off due to running out of road. Id rather try and figure this out before sending it to a dyno operator to test and bill me accordingly.

Are these spring issues normal, and what experiences are others having with these gates? Ive got it plumbed as per the manual with no boost controller on it as yet.

The Tial did hold boost and im a bit suprised this one doesnt seem to (or isnt accurate to the spring sizes)

Love to hear any comments

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291412-turbosmart-48mm-gate-questions/
Share on other sites

What do u mean by that mate? Its one of the older series gates and the only options are to change the spring. Its mounted in a real dog of a position so i was hoping to get some feedback prior to changing springs etc.

Oh sorry man yeh a lot of gates don't have preload adjustment. My bad.

If you were getting gate creep, the spring that was in your 44mm wasn't high enough.

In my playing with turbosmart gates they generally are anywhere between 1-3psi LESS than what the spring rate is 'said' to be.

ie the 14psi spring starts to open/creep around 12-13psi, not 14psi exactly. Nothing major however.

Sounds like you might not have seated the spring correctly perhaps.

Hi all. I have recently upgraded my turbo from a .82 3540 to the bigger 1.06 housing. Feels one hell of a lot faster thats for sure.

At the same time i also had the offer to swap my Tial 44 to a Turbosmart 48mm gate as i was getting a bit of creep. Its in there now and i only got to drive it for the first time today.

Questions:

The manual pdf from turbosmart themselves gives completely different spring colours to the sizes when i measure them. Ie the spring that is plainly orange in their books should be Red. A friend also has a similar gate and has this same problem.

The spring in there at present is meant to be the 14psi spring, however my car is boosting happily to 21psi before i back off due to running out of road. Id rather try and figure this out before sending it to a dyno operator to test and bill me accordingly.

Are these spring issues normal, and what experiences are others having with these gates? Ive got it plumbed as per the manual with no boost controller on it as yet.

The Tial did hold boost and im a bit suprised this one doesnt seem to (or isnt accurate to the spring sizes)

Love to hear any comments

Can you elaborate on the creep issues you were having with the tial?

Edited by DCIEVE

The turbo manifold had heaps of problems and would overboost with the Tial, so the manifold maker put the wastegate feed pipe more into the manifold. I didnt drive the car but this apparently fixed the problem, but it creeped a little bit (ie 3 psi).

Whilst the car was in the shop i changed exhaust housings to the bigger one and gates to the 48mm Turbosmart. The spring in the gate says 14psi and my car happily hits 21psi before i back off as its too nuts really to test on an open road.

Are you sure you don't have both inner and outer spring installed?

According to the manual, to get 21psi you need 7psi(orange) and 14psi (red) springs installed

For 14psi you just need the "red" spring

If the colours as screwed up as you say, just use the measurements provided

post-36493-1255395370_thumb.jpg

Edited by petern

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
    • Holy hell! That is absolutely stunning! Great work!!!
×
×
  • Create New...