Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all have for sale r33 gts25t metallic gunmetal grey,

Has 135xxx odo

located near hastings in Crib Point bout thirty min drive fron Frankston

Asking $9,500 firm

got twelve month rego and comes with roady!!!!!!!!!!

18" triple plated crome rodney jane racing rims,

lowered all round (legal height)

big bore tube n fin frount mount (monza)

Blits L/M cold air intake

boost controller under hood

Apexi three stage blow off valve

TRUST 3 1/2 inch down pipe and full kakimoto racing exhaust

sports steering wheel red and black leather

jvc/dvd head unit and 7 1/5 inch monitor

kicker comp vr splits front

cadence 6X9 rear shelf 12" pioneer sub closed box

Alpine 4channel and for internal speakers and boss 1000 watter for sub

aftermarket boost guage

all internal plastics metallic blue

racing pedals

all intermal materials are in good condition no tears well looked after

sad to see it go but big family needs big family car!!! and no its not going to be a bongo bus!!!!!!!!!

post-32646-1255233988_thumb.jpgpost-32646-1255234109_thumb.jpg

Edited by spudsr33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
×
×
  • Create New...