Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys starting another project, selling my stagea to get the missus a new Liberty wagon and also getting myself a 4wd, so am inheriting her 34 4 door in the deal.

At the moment its still pretty stock as until the stagea sells its her daily to take the kids etc, has been an excellent car though, so reliable, in the 4 years she has had it, have done the coilpacks and thats it. Obviously done all the servicing etc to it, car dosnt have any sqeaks or anything, i have been very suprised with its reliabilty.

OK as it sits now:

1998 Model

Turbo

Auto

Nismo coilovers (need replacing shocks worn)

Blitz rims (for sale)

Splitfire coil packs

K&N panel filter

Catback exhaust

I have been collecting parts for it for a while now, have sitting ready to go:

Manual conversion with excedy clutch

JIC rims 18x9.5 +15

Tein RA's (12kg spring, not sure if im gonna run these or not yet? opinion's?)

Cusco front upper camber arms

Rear camber arms

Front adjustable castor rods

HICAS cancellor bar

Walboro pump

Brembo's from my Stagea

Project Mu pads and shoes

ISC 52mm rad

Diff shim to tighten the LSD till i can get a 2way

Nistune rom

Origin Style boot lip spoler

Also have on there way:

JJR return flow FMIC

JJR dump

Hyper gear highflow

Custom oil cooler

Next parts on the wish list:

CF vented bonnet

CF boot lid

2 way

Some nice seats and harness bar

Gauges

Plans are to use it for club level sprints etc, some drifting and also maybe some tarmac stuff. Power wise goal is 350rwhp with max response, the reason for the highflow etc is to retain as much factory stuff as possible for reliabilty and legallity.

I will try and update this as we progress through fitting everything when the stagea finally sells.

Now for the pic's.

post-11869-1255265694_thumb.jpg

Edited by msports180
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291548-my-r34-4-door/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah same size on all corner's, 235/40/18's, front guards are lipped and slightly pulled, rear's im yet to do havnt had time, but my old 34 had same and they needed to be lipped, not sure how much lower i went, just kept playing with the height till it looked right and stopped scrubbing, front's are borderline without camber adjustment, id say go a 225.

Havnt had much time to do anything to it lately, jsut moved into my new house, try and start on it soon once's the boring house stuff is done. Ended up not going with the Teins and went some HKS coilovers instead.

post-11869-1260445493_thumb.jpg

post-11869-1260445552_thumb.jpg

post-11869-1260445590_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291548-my-r34-4-door/#findComment-4981245
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Havnt updated this for a while as it is pretty much still the same as above, havnt had time with house stuff etc.

But finally gonna start this week.

Manual conversion is happenning, ended up getting a HKS twin plate for it.

Also got some rear traction arms coming so i can get it in for a full wheel alignment.

Will get some updated photo's so, has been lowered some more at the back, wing removed and origin lip spoiler fitted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291548-my-r34-4-door/#findComment-5307141
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

OK so manual conversion is finished, havnt driven it yet though been trying to source a replacement lower rad hose.

Dump pipe on, rear traction arms done and rear end all done, diff shimmed to.

Will get it going this wkend then take it to a mate's place and rip the cradle out for some RC mods and change out all the bushes for some custom one's weve been making.

01082010347.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291548-my-r34-4-door/#findComment-5404103
Share on other sites

Its alive!! ended up getting a R33 thermo stat housing for it and used a R33 hose $30 new comapred to $77 for a R34 one...

So fired it up today for the 1st time in around 4 months.

Still cant drive it as i need to roll the rear guards and then its done.

Drove it in and out of the garage though, mainly just to see if it would move since doing the manual conversion, twin plate is savage!

Now waiting on a mate to roll the gaurds on the wkend, then drive time! wooo getting excited.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291548-my-r34-4-door/#findComment-5411755
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

So not much kinda happened to this for 2 years whilst i got hooked by 4wding, now ive got a pretty capable 4wd im getting stuck into this again.

Sitting there ready to go into it now are:

Kando T67

Hybrid Manifold

Tial 44mm gate

750cc injectors

Z32 AFM

Nistune with stagea image to remove TCS

Oil cooler

52mm alloy rad

walbro pump

4 x Defi style gauge's

2 x Bride GIAS seats

CF Z tune bonnet

GTR style front lip

URAS roof spoiler

Also now rolling on Gun Metal grey 18x9.5+20 Rota Grids

Slowly getting bits done, will post pic's up once done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291548-my-r34-4-door/#findComment-6495928
Share on other sites

Got most the piping done, injectors in, gauges all wired, oil cooler mounted, radiator done (had to trim the shroud a shite load), will do seats 2moro.

Shitty pic, still gotta do some cleaning and painting in the bay, not much point till its done as i know i will scratch it :(

2012-08-26%2012.24.18.jpg

https://dl.dropbox.c...%2012.24.18.jpg

Edited by msports180
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291548-my-r34-4-door/#findComment-6505963
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So all the fab work will be finished this wkend. Then she should be driveable. Few more things to do yet.

Goes in for a tune October the 3rd. Looking forward to getting it going. Got a drift practice October 13th so better get moving!

Few pics of it filthy in the garage.

post-11869-0-19362600-1347289254_thumb.png

post-11869-0-13317000-1347289271_thumb.png

post-11869-0-33707700-1347289285_thumb.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291548-my-r34-4-door/#findComment-6526860
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...