Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had my wheels balanced a few weeks ago and the idiots that did the balance grazed where the holes were for the bolts on the rims. They also nicked a bit of paint off from the rim near the bolt. This was on 4 wheels. What the hell did they do wrong?

Someone told me they should have used a plastic piece that goes around the air gun to prevent damaging the wheel? Does anyone know what this plastic thing is so i can tell the next person that works on my car?

Cheers

Yea the wa***rs that changed my tyres did the same thing :D

I was looking for a decent socket the other day but only found a set of them and didnt want all three, made by SCA i think? 17mm, 19mm and 21mm and they all have the protective outer lining bit, $35 from supercheap.

its a care factor thing. most tyre shops know that you wont kick a fuss about minor scratches on the wheels so they dont really bother.

its like getting new tyres and balancing...this one place I went actually did the trouble of deflating ...rotate...inflate...balance a couple of times until they found a setting with minimal counter balance weights. other shops will install and balance and stick a ton of lead weights on one side if that's what the reading on the machine told them

Someone told me they should have used a plastic piece that goes around the air gun to prevent damaging the wheel? Does anyone know what this plastic thing is so i can tell the next person that works on my car?

Dunno what its name is, but yeah good tyre shops will cover the sockets in plastic.

If you've got a good relationship with the tyre shop and they don't have the plastic sleeve, ask them to put tape over the sockets. At home I wrap mine in masking tape or race tape. If they're lazy and don't know you they'll either give you lip service or tell you to get stuffed, but if you get on with them they might take the extra 30 seconds.

I've only found a couple of places that are willing to take care to not damage wheels. I was really happy to deal with Tyrepower Hornsby when I got my TE37s. Not only are their sockets plastic sheathed, but the guys there actually wrapped my metal valve steps with cloth so they could screw them in with pliers (or whatever tool it is they use to grip it) without scratching them. They also made sure they were careful moving the wheels on and off the car.

They also knew not to airgun-tighten my RAYS wheelnuts, which puts them well above most knuckle-draggers working at tyre shops.

If you had noticed at the time, refusing to pay the bill until they agree to have all damage repaired , certainly would have made them be careful NEXT time...

But seriously, how long was it before you noticed? If it was only hours, go back complain, it's your property they're working on , you're paying them, there's an expectation that they don't damage things...

It's a shame to have to find out this way, check out ANY work done on your car BEFORE you pay. Most mechanics, etc, are careful, but some are not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
    • Got started on the modification to make these splash plates fit over the long weekend. First the surprisingly time consuming task of swapping all the cam cap bolts to Tomei cam cap studs. I did the method of removing one bolt at a time, applying loctite to the stud, double nutting to torque as the manual described. Then carefully unlocking the nuts without disrupting the torque of the stud (and going back to re-torque a few times when it slipped). Finally applying the nut and torquing to spec. Repeat x28 Next up I went about removing the stock cam cover baffle so I could ensure it was fully clean after drilling for stud clearance.  As the blind rivets holding the baffle on were domed I used a punch to mark the center then used 4mm drill bit to carefully drill out the rivet without going too far part the baffle. As seen in other thread here is what is inside the stock baffles I decided on M4x6mm bolts to bolt the baffle plate back on with. I used a 3.3mm drill bit with some tape to mark the depth at ~8mm. Next was to tap the threads using a cheap bunnings kit M4x0.7. With the baffle removed I also drilled out the spot welds holding in the baffle plate oil returns. Unsure whether this was the best option or if I should have cut holes in the Hypertune splash plates to allow the oil drains to still function... time will tell. I then removed the the Hypertune splash plates so I could rest the cam cover on top and use a dab of grease to mark where the studs impacted the oem cam cover baffle. The most obvious spot was on the hump from the stock mesh is held. Using this hole as an anchor I bolted the oem baffle plate back into the cam cover and lined up the Hypertune splash plate. Marked the rest of the holes for the studs and drill those out too. Total 32 holes drilled and 12 threads tapped on the passenger side cam cover alone for this bolt on part that totally clears all OEM cam covers.. Drivers side next as well as some E85 safe fuel foam to fill the space behind the behind cam cover baffle plates. oh and some lock nuts for the splash plates of course.
×
×
  • Create New...