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  • 2 weeks later...

im in melb i can come pick it up also need the glove box front sway bar heater core unit inside the dash all the carpet boot trimming charcoal canister and air box and snorkel and drive window switch no 0403011187 thanks mate really need all these things

Hi, have you still got your tail lights?

Where can i pick them up?

Thanks DAnnie

so i have decided to wreck my r33 instead of fixing it after crashing it. everything for sale is in good condition unless stated otherwise. listed below is everything i can think of but if you need something not listed pm me or call on 0400119068. all interior parts are ready now (12/10) and will have things like motor and gearbox out by the end of the week. i will post pics up on request. feel free to make an offer but im not in a hurry to sell so dont bother low balling!! cheers, Shane

gcg turbo- sold pending payment

engine (inluding front facing plenum)-1300

gearbox-1500

front brake set up (rotors and callipers)-350

back brake set up-150

front subframe-250

steering rack-100

apexi coilovers (adjustable damper)-550

rear subframe + diff (shimmed)-500

front seats-200

rear seat-50

pedals-50

passenger door-120

drivers door (panel damaged, good for window and interior)-70

spare driver door (bought it to fix the car)-100

spoiler and boot-200

seat belts-100 the lot

s2 head lights. (2x left and 1x right)-250 each

fuel tank-50

tailshaft-100

heavy duty clutch and flywheel-100

brake master cylinder/booster-100

front 1/4 panels-120 each

side skirts (right side one slighty damaged)-50

white line swaybar-200

full exhausted system including front+dump pipe, high flow cat-500

big injectors-300

split fire coil pack-300

roll cage (half cage with side intrusion bars made by brown davis)-1000

17inch g-max rims (no tyres)-500

loom-100

tail lights-60

starter motor-40

defi water temp and oil temp gauge + defi control unit (missing oil temp sensor)-400

speedo cluster with 106k on the clock-150

would you have the round thin plate with a wire ribbon that sits behind the steering wheel that plugs into the airbag computer is about 2 or 3 mil thick and about 100 mil across is black with yellow info sticker on it if you have how much with postage to tassie thanks you can contact me on 0408802254 or pm on here your call

  • 2 weeks later...

Ill take the seat belts if they aren't already gone. Id also like some interior trim (handbrake boot, gearstick boot, carmats...) you name your price

  • 2 months later...

hey mate

i am after a piping that goes from the ic piping to somwhere (i dont know) near the stock bov.....

here is what i am after

post-37912-1268351673_thumb.jpg

if you have it them pm me please

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey mate i know its an old post,

But just wondering if u hav any of these parts i need??

- Frount passenger side quater panel

- The inner Frount gard Lh side were the cooler piping

goes thro and were the head light bolts up

i need that whole section

- S2 LH side, headlight

- Radiator suport bar

- frount reo bar, infrount of cooler

Any help would be much appreciated

if u hav any of the above send us a msg on 0403 236 931

cheers troy..

  • 2 months later...

im after the Heater AirFlow Direction Mode Actuator (underneath the dash passanger side above centre heater box) & a Heater Temperature Mode Actuator (driverside on the heater box pedal lil black box)..

if u got both of the PM me plz with a price from them..

cheers,

Robbie

  • 3 weeks later...

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    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
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