Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm sure you get this alot but I just sold my 2006 accord euro & i'm now looking for an r34 gtr in japan!

Anywho I was hoping someone could help me out and tell me the difference besides an r34 gtr v spec and a non v spec I know it's somehting with the diff but what are the actual differences? and how much would I be looking at? & of course who do i go through?!

Thanks in advance!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291716-sorry-to-do-it-to-you-all/
Share on other sites

Hi Mitch,

The V-Spec is a relatively minor upgrade to a regular GTR (you don't get any more power, for example), it had additional rake ducts and diffusers, an active rear LSD, improved 4WD computer programming, stiffer suspension, a lower ride height, and intercooler and exhaust gas temperature probes for display on the diagnostic display monitor in the cabin. There is also a V-Spec 2 which is a V-Spec but with carbon fibre bonnet (with NACA duct) and larger rear brake disks.

Pricing for a GOOD condition GTR (we're actually starting to see some rough ones now, sadly) is around the mid 40's landed and complied at the moment if using an import broker such as ourselves. V-Specs cost on average a couple of grand more.

Hi Mitch,

The V-Spec is a relatively minor upgrade to a regular GTR (you don't get any more power, for example), it had additional rake ducts and diffusers, an active rear LSD, improved 4WD computer programming, stiffer suspension, a lower ride height, and intercooler and exhaust gas temperature probes for display on the diagnostic display monitor in the cabin. There is also a V-Spec 2 which is a V-Spec but with carbon fibre bonnet (with NACA duct) and larger rear brake disks.

Pricing for a GOOD condition GTR (we're actually starting to see some rough ones now, sadly) is around the mid 40's landed and complied at the moment if using an import broker such as ourselves. V-Specs cost on average a couple of grand more.

Hi mate and thankyou very much for the information!!!

in saying an active rear lsd is that like an sti in that you can adjust the power between the front & back wheels?

and how do I go about it should i wish to proceed through you guys?

and can i make a regular gtr into a vspec?

thanks in advance (again)

Hey Mitch,

The Active LSD only operates at the rear and controls power sent to the left and right wheels, so it's different to the centre diff on say an STi. When you put power to the rear wheels the LSD detects if one wheel is spinning faster than the other, and then the computer alters locks up the diff via hydraulic pressure to try and take power away from the wheel which is spinning and send it to the one which isn't, thus improving traction. The Active LSD has nothing to do with the 4WD system and in fact the Active LSD was an option on RWD R33 GTS25t's... I remember we imported one of these for a customer and he used to call it the drift light, because whenever the car got sideways the Active LSD would do it's best to help by locking up and the little A-LSD light would light up on the dash :P

That's not to say that the GTR doesn't have centre diff control. It has the ATESSA ET-S system which via computer control determines how much power is sent to the front or rear of the car (the V-Spec has the improved ATESSA ET-S Pro computer) to maximize traction, and in fact a GTR starts out as mostly a RWD and then power is only sent to the front wheels when the computer detects it is needed. This is why the GTR doesn't have painful understeer like some 4WD's that have less intelligent front/rear power control. Learning a lot today aren't we! :D

Converting a regular GTR to a V-Spec would be very difficult indeed as you're talking computers and sensors as well as mechanical components.

If you'd like to talk to us about finding one shoot me an email at [email protected] and we can talk about what you're after.

Hey Mitch,

The Active LSD only operates at the rear and controls power sent to the left and right wheels, so it's different to the centre diff on say an STi. When you put power to the rear wheels the LSD detects if one wheel is spinning faster than the other, and then the computer alters locks up the diff via hydraulic pressure to try and take power away from the wheel which is spinning and send it to the one which isn't, thus improving traction. The Active LSD has nothing to do with the 4WD system and in fact the Active LSD was an option on RWD R33 GTS25t's... I remember we imported one of these for a customer and he used to call it the drift light, because whenever the car got sideways the Active LSD would do it's best to help by locking up and the little A-LSD light would light up on the dash :P

That's not to say that the GTR doesn't have centre diff control. It has the ATESSA ET-S system which via computer control determines how much power is sent to the front or rear of the car (the V-Spec has the improved ATESSA ET-S Pro computer) to maximize traction, and in fact a GTR starts out as mostly a RWD and then power is only sent to the front wheels when the computer detects it is needed. This is why the GTR doesn't have painful understeer like some 4WD's that have less intelligent front/rear power control. Learning a lot today aren't we! :D

Converting a regular GTR to a V-Spec would be very difficult indeed as you're talking computers and sensors as well as mechanical components.

If you'd like to talk to us about finding one shoot me an email at [email protected] and we can talk about what you're after.

Well I'll most certainly be doing it through you you've been more than helpful and very tolerant of my probably silly questions!

I just got a nea laptop so I'm making an email address and I will be in touch I tried to find you on the net yet found out about your site being hacked sorry to hear it!

Also i found a few good ones on trade car view.

speak soon.

Ugh Tradecar View! Don't even get me started! I'll tell you about it when your email is up and running....

Yes sorry our site is down at the moment, it was hacked and we lost everything. New site is almost done, I desperately want to announce a release date but I'm sure it'll end up being wrong and make a liar out of me, but it's close!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...