Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

easy solution:)

take car to Southwest Brake and Clutch and let Dsturbed do the work i bet he willget it all sored easy

Way i see it is he has no money as he trying to do it himself so i prefer he not call ;)

Isnt southwest in Bunbury ?

Could easily afford to pay somebody else to do it for me, but I'd rather build my own car. If its really too much confusion I'll just weld something up myself, all I wanted to know was if anybody knew or not where I could buy pre-made spacers, and I figured it'd make sense in the minds of most that obviously bigger rotors dont suit.

  • 1 month later...

Bump!

Instead of creating a new thread, thought I'll reuse this one

Anyone in Perth actually makes dogbones/adapters? Need a radial mount adapter made up!!

Tried ringing Perth brake parts and it looks like they dont do custom jobs and only supply brake parts etc

Go to the all-knowing South West Breaks seeing as they're sponsors of this site.

There's a place in Kelmscott that is well into brakes though. I think it's AAA Brakes or something.

http://www.aaabrakeresleeving.com.au/

eh. try em.

No mate, silly retard, ANY rotor and caliper will fit onto ANY knuckle assembly, regardless of size...and did you know hot air is better than cold air?

If you have a technical question, ask/bump in the technical question, not here in WA unless you want dumb answers...

In regards to the question, probably alot of brake workshops that will take your money, otherwise fjust make them yourself. I resorted to making my own after this fail thread and it was pretty easy.

No mate, silly retard, ANY rotor and caliper will fit onto ANY knuckle assembly, regardless of size...and did you know hot air is better than cold air?

If you have a technical question, ask/bump in the technical question, not here in WA unless you want dumb answers...

In regards to the question, probably alot of brake workshops that will take your money, otherwise fjust make them yourself. I resorted to making my own after this fail thread and it was pretty easy.

You ever heard of "if you having nothing better to say, dont say it at all?" geez

If the technical section wasn't so eastern state base, I wouldnt have ask in wa section - guess smart arse like you wouldn't help anyway

Mate, did you notice I was the one who started this thread?

All I was saying, is that if you want an answer backed up by more than 5 brain cells, ask in the Brakes/Suspension area, not here in WA, just look at the replies, these dumb-f**ks don't know shit about cars, how cars work, how brakes work, they can't even grasp the concept of needing to mount the caliper further away from the wheel hub center to fit a larger rotor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
    • @Duncan Random side note, did the cops give you the driver/owners details of the taxi and then did Shannons give you a refund of the excess once you supplied those details?
    • Yeah to be clear I'm not naive, I'm sure all insurance companies are a bunch of arseholes who pay people bonusses based on the value of genuine claims they avoid....I just don't want to go back to one that has personally f**ked me multiple times in the past  
×
×
  • Create New...