Big End Bearing Gone..

[Jez13]

Just had a second hand R33 GTR engine installed 3 weeks ago. The car was driving perfectly until last night when I got home - my big end bearing is shot. Some say just replace the bearing and the crank (if the crank needs replacing - $1500), others say rebuild the whole engine (5k) and possibly go the whole 9 yards with forgies (10k). My first engine blew 5 months ago from a failed oil pump and I only got the car back 3 weeks ago, this 'new' engine blew because - well I have no idea actually, was only running 0.8 bar. So I would like, once repaired, for this engine not to blow up again. I would also like to know where I should take it (preferably hills area or western subs) for these repairs. I dont want cheap and dodgy and I dont want somewhere that charges unreasonable rates - a happy medium. Thanks in advance if anyone can help a guy thats just about had enough of a car he has only owned for 8 or so months.

[SimonR32]

depends what you want from the motor and how much you want to spend

[Deano 1]

i hate hereing these storys. makes my just wanner leave my R in the shed, and not drive it. Its only a weekend, but still. just park it and look at it. haha

[writeoff]

Unfortunately the answer is really dependant upon how much you want (or have) to spend. These cars can be brilliant fun but they also rip your heart out as quickly as any female.

When my big end bearing spun I went the forged internals route. It cost a lot and the car was off the road for a long time but I didn't want it to happen again. Going with stock internals can again you always run that risk. After a lot of research and asking advice on SAU I decided upon the following formula:

CP pistons & rings

Tomei conrod bolts

Tomei 1.2mm metal head gasket

Tomei oil restrictor

Tomei sump baffle kit

Tomei poncams 260 9.15 lift + pulley set

R33 GTR gasket set

R33 GTR long nose crank

R33 GTR harmonic balancer

ARP head studs

SARD 700cc injectors

Nismo fuel pump

Nismo AFMs

Nismo timing belt

N1 oil pump (if I had the $ I would get either a JUN or Tomei pump)

N1 water pump

HKS GT-SS turbos

HKS dumps (I think most on SAU rate the Trust ones more now)

Splitfire ignition coils

Apexi PFC + HC

I can't recall what brand of valves & springs I used right now but you get the picture anyway. It costs a lot!

A cheaper alternative could be to look through the for sale section and see if someone is selling a rebuilt motor that has forged internals. I sem to recall seeing one for $8k a while ago and there are a few people abandoning big hp projects or wrecking GTRs atm.

Good luck.

[The Dan]

I'd like to help but I have 3 other RB26's to build for people with similar stories and I'm not in east subs. Happy to help with advice or whatever if you have any questions though.

[Jez13]

Geez. Already got all your bolt ons (injectors, turbos, N1 pump, pfcs, pipes etc), but dont have your insides. So definately just the engine I am after work on.

[heslo]

There's a lot of cost saved there already then! If it were me personally, I'd rebuild it, then you know it's strong and can take what you throw at it. You have to ask yourself though, what's the car worth to you and will you have it in a years time?

[bloodzkull]

high octane sump

tomei restrictor

r33 crank (mine only cost 1100 from nissan?)

cp pistons

spool rods

new bearings

cam gears

possibly cams

and there's a fun little motor, not to expensive either

[heslo]

Sounds like a good combo, chuck in a Nitto oil pump for good measure and you're set

[bloodzkull]

whoops forgot the oil pump. that list was the very basics of the build of my old gtr, except with a few other goodies thrown in

[_Ryan_]

Didn't you have a recent thread asking rebuild or low-km motor and everyone said rebuild?

[Jez13]

Didn't you have a recent thread asking rebuild or low-km motor and everyone said rebuild?

Yeah that was when my first motor blew, which was 5 months ago. I just got the car back from the workshop 3.5 weeks ago. The place I bought it from gave me warranty to replace the engine free of charge with a 33 gtr engine or rebuild the 32 one with forgies at a cost. I was pushing for the rebuild but the option was then removed and I had no choice but to replace the engine. Either that or take the car else where and pay full cost. I thought I might as well use the warranty while I have it...but now back to square one again with no warranty. I have had some pm'ed proposals for rebuilds that I am considering at very decent prices - just gotta pull a bit more cash together and get started.

[Cjmartz2k]

I'd find a different shop to say the least.

[Guilt-Toy]

its gone? where did it go? you better find it! engine wont go very good without it.

[NickR33]

it took them 4 months to put a second hand motor in?.....................

[Jez13]

it took them 4 months to put a second hand motor in?.....................

Yes. I drove one of their evo's as a courtesy car in the interim.

[NickR33]

that was nice of them!... still I got a full rebuild in less than half that time... I guess they could have been waiting to get a second hand motor delivered... long time to wait either way

[SiR_RB]

hopefully the standard r33 crank isnt damaged and can be used again (with the usual preperations) that'l save u abit of money just there

you aiming for a big Hp engine? or something reliable that can handle up to 300rwkw ?

maybe a basic forged rebuild would be ideal...

[Jez13]

hopefully the standard r33 crank isnt damaged and can be used again (with the usual preperations) that'l save u abit of money just there

you aiming for a big Hp engine? or something reliable that can handle up to 300rwkw ?

maybe a basic forged rebuild would be ideal...

Yeah I hope the crank is ok. My car dynoed at 230awkw at 1 bar and I was completely satisfied with that setup.

Does anyone know how or why bearings break so easily?

[Swiper the Fox]

hopefully the standard r33 crank isnt damaged and can be used again (with the usual preperations) that'l save u abit of money just there

you aiming for a big Hp engine? or something reliable that can handle up to 300rwkw ?

maybe a basic forged rebuild would be ideal...

even if it is damged a simple 10thou grind and oversize bearings will have it like new...as long as its not too deeply scored.

my basic rebuilds using only forged pistons, ARP rod bolts and Nitto oil pump (everything else Nissan)have been proven reliable at over 450AWKW. The basics put together well handles big power...no problem.

Edited October 14, 2009 by DiRTgarage