Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

would 18x9.5 +30 rims fit on a stock r33 gtst?

eeeeeasy.

Especially when they cry about how much they miss it :)

lol. ill miss my car, but ill just steal yours when i get bored.

thanks for the quick replies guys

edit:

actually how bout 18x10 +15 ? Im guessin they wouldnt.

Considering getting in on this group buy:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ro...fs-t322390.html

Any thoughts?

Edited by Amaaru

You guys need to go a bit easy when giving advice on fitment. I know some of you are hard core with your own cars, but the average Joe Blow doesn't want to :

1. have to roll his guards

2. endure the occasional tyre scrape on the guards on bumps

3. fit a camber kit and run mega camber

4. chew through tyres like no mans business (see above)

5. stretch 225s on a 10" rim in order to make the tyre not foul on the guard

6. have wheels illegally (and very obviously illegally at that) hanging outside the guards

etc etc etc

id consider something like this a little on the 'unreasonable' side.

IMG_3180.jpg

anything that simply requires a light roll to fit is pretty reasonable imo.

im running (on the rear) a 9 +17 with less than a degree of camber and a 225/45 tyre on mildly rolled guards, ive still got enough space left in there to run a 235/45 with no adjustment, and a 245/45 with a newspaper roll.

granted this is on an s14, but the space they have under the guards isnt all that dissimilar from an r33.

i only ever have trouble with rubbing on my front inner guards*, and thats only ever been an issue at the track, and camber kits and the like are part and parcel when you lower a nissan anymore than what... half an inch? the factory toe and camber arms just dont have the requisite levels of adjustment need to correct geometry when you lower your car.

*... okay, i also had a bit of trouble with the wiring loom, but i caught that before it was an issue, and it was an easy fix.

Edited by scandyflick

haha yea Im not too keen of having some weird camber.

Whats involved in having your guards rolled? Might consider that.

Dont think I would mind the scrapes either, as long as they were occasional :)

Otherwise would typically want something that fits in fine without much modification. I believe I read somewhere that +30 or more is what I would need but Im not sure if that is right. Nor do I know how this relates to the width of the wheel.

I guess I should jst take the time to have a good look and measure it up

haha yea Im not too keen of having some weird camber.

Whats involved in having your guards rolled? Might consider that.

Dont think I would mind the scrapes either, as long as they were occasional :)

Otherwise would typically want something that fits in fine without much modification. I believe I read somewhere that +30 or more is what I would need but Im not sure if that is right. Nor do I know how this relates to the width of the wheel.

I guess I should jst take the time to have a good look and measure it up

Just make sure you try before you buy. Some rims will theorietically work, but infact dont. Places like JIS are happy to fit them up before you buy them to see if it all works.

holy shit, blast from the f**kin 90's!

belting out a shit ton of music on itunes at the moment, and the last 3 songs it spat out were glycerin by bush, shimmer by fuel, and be quiet and drive by the deftones... f**kin hell, it was awesome.

haha yea Im not too keen of having some weird camber.

you lower your car and youre gonna have weird camber. all a part of modded car life. thankfully, camber arms are cheap.

Whats involved in having your guards rolled? Might consider that.

pretty simple procedure, some body shops and most wheel shops (tyrepower, wheeljerx, etc) will roll your guards for $40 a corner.

basically it just involves heating the lip of the guards and knocking inner horizontal lip flush with the skin. gives you a solid half inch clearance.

Dont think I would mind the scrapes either, as long as they were occasional :)

scrapes arent that bad. as i said, ive only ever had problems out on track, and they were solved with zip ties... you mightnt even have that problem.

youre gonna scrape your exhaust and shit more than anything. andrews just being dramatic.

Otherwise would typically want something that fits in fine without much modification. I believe I read somewhere that +30 or more is what I would need but Im not sure if that is right. Nor do I know how this relates to the width of the wheel.

whats your definition of 'fine'?

offset is pretty simple stuff, theres a bunch of great articles out there, even wikipedia has a page on it.

but yeah, places like jis are happy to help you test fit wheels to your car to see how they look, and places like adelaide tyrepower and wheelworx will be happy to give you a hand.

Below is an awesome tool to help you get a feel for the correct width and offset of wheel. Just put in the stock width and offset, and compare the numbers. Obviously you need to be mindful of inner, as well as out clearance - as inner clearance dictates whether you will foul on your suspension components, and obviously outer clearance is whether you will hit your guard (if it is not rolled and assuming no camber). I strongly recommend you lower your car to how you're going to keep it, get it wheel aligned, THEN start choosing wheels/offsets.

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

so here i am , sitting at my pc at 4am in the morning and ive started thinking about putting my dented r33 shell to good use as a drift hack...

thinking about putting my whole car into it basically...

just so that i can skid it and not have to worry about paint work getting scratched , panels getting macked in etc etc

sorta missle spec.

should i do it ? :)

i think im loosing my mind...

Then why sell it?

Because I don't want to track it, and I want something I can track without a worry.

Sure I could track the 32 but I really don't want to, too much to loose if I twisted it

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...