Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

need fuel pump for 31,

i dont think ill do the fuel cell set up right away, so an internal one for now will be fine.....

obviously whatever i get will have to be re-wired eh?

I have 040 sitting in my shed :)

no one's got 265 Ku36, till next year, ended up getting 275

I run KU36 275/35/18 on 18x10 +20 BBS rims. I needed to get my guards rolled to stop the tyres rubbing but this was after the crap repair my car received so maybe if the guards had been fitted correctly the tyres wouldn't have rubbed.

I run 245's on a 8.5 rim at the track, If i was you i'd be going 255's minimum. No need to stretch your tyres on a 9.5inch rim on a GTR.\

I'm pretty sure Sled had 255's on his 9.5's on his GTR.

problem is KU36's dont come in 255's, it was either 245/35 or 265/35, both would have been fine, the 265 obviously being a tighter fit, but the price jumps a decent amount from the 245 to the 265

got told tonight by my boss i could have friday night off to go play with my broom brooms lol

cant wait to get the 34 out on the drag strip again :D

What times are you clocking currently?

So, does anyone know if you have to shorten the tailshaft on a R32 when you install a RB25 using the RB20 box? I wouldnt have though so, but I read somewhere it said even with the 20 gearbox you have to :D

haha, rad, cheers buddy, awesome link.

group buy?!?!?? =O

and hence why i suggested the slightly higher side wall... doesnt stretch so bad

option1 garage or head down to adelaide tyrepower and talk to troy about em. he should be able to price match them.

got told tonight by my boss i could have friday night off to go play with my broom brooms lol

cool. can you start with my garage? its needed a sweep out for a while now.

:D

Edited by scandyflick

For anyone who has ever sworn at a tool...

Wordsmithing definitons..

Description of common tools.

DRILL PRESS:

A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock

out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer

across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully

set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL:

Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench

with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses

from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh s h --'

SKILL SAW:

A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

ADJUSTABLE WRENCH:

Used to start the process of rounding off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the

creation of knuckle abrasions.

PLIERS:

Used to complete the process of rounding off bolt heads. Sometimes used in

the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER:

An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into

major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW:

One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle.. It

transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more

you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS:

Generally used after pliers completely round off bolt heads. They can also

be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH:

Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on

fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which

you want to remove a bearing race.

TABLE SAW:

A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for

testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC JACK:

A tool used for raising a car to change a flat tire that seldom fits under a

car with a flat tire.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:

Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your

new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

BAND SAW:

A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good

aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can

after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:

A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to

disconnect.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:

Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style

paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be

used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:

A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted

screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.

WIRE CUTTERS:

Handy for cutting wires and zip ties. Can also be used to determine the

presence of electricity.

PRY BAR:

A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed

to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER:

A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER:

Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a

kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object

we are trying to hit.

UTILITY KNIFE:

Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered

to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl

records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and

rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes and

fingers, but only while in use.

Son of a bitch TOOL:

Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Son

of a bitch' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool

that you will need.

So, does anyone know if you have to shorten the tailshaft on a R32 when you install a RB25 using the RB20 box? I wouldnt have though so, but I read somewhere it said even with the 20 gearbox you have to :D

I wouldnt bother.

the RB25 will munch the RB20 box in no time, do it right teh first time and go a whole 25 package.

ask Ryanrb25, find him on face book, he usually happy to help with any questions you have.

just dont expect him to do it for you :(

ROR Scandy.......if you like that shit, you must like blokes too.

Normal peeps prefer the girls in the 1st part of the vid.......each to their own weird fetishes I suppose.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
    • All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?
    • It seems you'd like your Skyline to go to a great home, that can keep it as a beautiful museum piece.  I feel I can provide the perfect place for it, however, I'm not sure I can justify so much money for a Skyline that has only been crashed 3 times. Due to this and market prices, would you be against me buying it for $100.00, with $60 to be paid upfront, and the remaining $40 to be paid annually in equal payments?  
    • I did say no low balling (Insert copy and paste article from Motor mag with complete history of R32 GTR development and racing history here)
×
×
  • Create New...