Jump to content
SAU Community

The Sa Wasteland


heslo
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

really ghetto initially. basically got L brackets from bunnings and bolted them to the seat. then where they lined up on the rail, drilled and bolted them on

make sure u get strong ones though

Link to comment
Share on other sites

haha awesome work there Vu, i have a black jzx100 chaser with some chrome LM gt4's, nitro of course. They get really addictive! :cool:

need more drift videos!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Vids and pics of it in action will come real soon this weekend!

Theres black LMGT4s on that R34 shell there, I need something with more offset though for that R32 to fill the guards on the rear :cool:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you get your models from Hobby Habit?

also..just dial in some camber..always fun there!

thats it there..on the camera phone.

post-59512-1256722705_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll race ya with the nitro R32 up to 50km/h, it could go up faster but launch is super quick due to it's light weight AWD making it a quick win :cool:

electric is faster :bunny:

I was running a mamba brushless combo and a 3s lipo and was seeing speeds around 100kph with foam tyers. Im also running a Team losi truck with a Sidewinder 5700kv combo and 2s lipo and im hitting speeds around 70kph with offroad tyers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick update on the 26.

The loom is off the motor, aswell as the plenum. Need to organise a small crack in the plenum to be welded up and then strip it down with paint stripper and get it looking like new. Will be replacing all hoses with black silicon ones and getting new intake gaskets.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I picked up the rc car with the S15 shell at hobby habits on main north, the 34 shell at hobby habit daws road and the 32 shell on ebay, I also got an R34 shell that my girlfriend painted a charmeleon purple green colour lol I so wouldnt mind them 1:10 scaled Work Meister or XSA mmmmm

Dave, I was originally going to go for another electric and eventually whack a mamba max in there but couldnt resist trying out the nitro - the noise and the smoke is awesome. I could whack a mamba into the associated 1:18 I got but searching around apparently it doesnt stay on the ground because its too small/light :cool:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That R32 shell only just came in the mail today so its fresh and clean... and then it'll just end up like my S15 shell after it's first tank lol

the middle R34 shell will go on an electric one eventually :rofl:

Did you get your models from Hobby Habit?

also..just dial in some camber..always fun there!

thats it there..on the camera phone.

haha me, scott and adrian have 1:10 electric drift cars, farkin fun, havent taken mine out of the shed in a while tho. I have a 32 gtr shell, Blitz R34 drift shell, AE86 panda spec shell and an S15 :(

Whatever you do, grease up the driveshafts, the front ones are farking expensive!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...