Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

for anyone that likes their high octane super large baffeled and gated sump extensions and is thinking about buying one sometime soon, perhaps hold off on buying one as mine is apparently weeping oil =\

How so and from where?

boostworx are looking into it now (as they sold it to me/buit and installed it), but yeah, shaun is once again going above and beyond!!!

from the description he gave me it just seems to be from the metal itself, its coming threw the walls etc, nothing to do with welding etc droplets of oil just appear on the outside of the sump =\

yeah, i just dropped it back to them because run in had finished and there were other oil leaks (when i first got it back there was a leak from the head and power steering, then a leak from the oil relocation kit) and now this XD

seems very wrong, apparently it only happens when the it heats up if its just sitting there nothing much will happen... so its only a problem if i drive it =(

ah well... just means another week+ delay on getting my car back, but it'll be fixed and thats the important part

My thoughts too however they test each one with a coloured dye after they are manufactured, surely this issue would come up then?

Or so they say. The first series of VT's has a similar problem with the cast alloy transmission pans weaping through the casting. Problem only arose after the car had be driven for a while (constant heating up and cooling down). Therefore if it is a porys casting then it would only show up more so after install and driving than in a simple bench top penetrative dye test.

Least you can actually drive it now though aye :)

On another note, I'm back in the Nissan product :D swapped my RX7 for a 180 last night lol

Yeah not quite...

donkeys haven't cleared it on their systems so i cant renew my rego

losers...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No need to drill any holes. There's plenty of access to reach through and behind all of that steel to "push" from behind with a pulling action on the slide hammer. There's all sorts of attachments you can screw on the end of them.
    • Yea the photos aren't the best. When I was pulling the bumper and headlights out there was a bodyshop guy looking on for it, there is a slight bend behind where the passenger headlight is, but we're talking a few MM and there is a little bit of a bend for the reo. That said it's supposedly well within the "Drill a hole in it and pull it out with a slide hammer to be close enough" and be on our way. The other option is to buy a GTR reo for the GTR bumper bits but this is a $2000+ fix for something Mr Hammer can probably do 99% of the job for and everything will/can line up pretty closely-to-good-enough.
    • That's a write off for sure... Part out? 😛 I kid. It looks like the rad support has a minor minor bend in it too where the rep support sits near. Could just be the photos (and me not wearing my glasses right now). Worst case is you can buy a new radiator support, have it swapped over, and leave the car in paint jail for 12 to 18 months while you build the motor to handle twin turbos or a Harrop SC...
    • It seems the definition of "Gregging" something might need to be expanded?
    • This is why I suggested that there is really nothing that can safely be done in the engine bay at this budget level. Just the work to reassure yourself that the engine won't instantly crap itself the moment the boost gets turned up will wear out the piggy bank long before the first turbo gets installed. Spend $10k and still not have any extra performance? My tip is a version of our standard advice from 15 years ago about buying a GTR, which is not to buy one unless you can afford to buy two. The new version is not to modify a GTR unless you have all the funds required to do it all at once, properly, and enough to rebuild it after it blows up.
×
×
  • Create New...