Jump to content
SAU Community

Official NSW Skyline spotted thread


CerealKiller

Recommended Posts

spot me back then:P

what turbo and BOV do you have?(your car sounds good)

also seen a black 33 outfront of kingswood station all smashed up.

and FEAR on the grt wstrn just before st marys(sounded good)

well i would if i knew where you were :rofl: unless you were the one right next to me hehehehe...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

spotted a black r32 gtst heading west on the M4 at 17:20pm, right beside me and did not even look. :)

Also silver R33 S2 getting on to GW HWY near pinegrove, had P's and GTR wing, no hello! ;)

Time to give up!, get more waves from falcon and commo drivers <_<

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That SSR is actually the same (or similar) as the Jaycar 100AMP SSR (which I use). They suggest the resistor to stop the SSR turning on when the ECU turns off (I believe). I personally don't use the resistor as I use the 5V output from the ECU to supply power to the SSR. I do however run a flyback diode, the old Haltech documentation was wrong too and didn't specify the fly back, I mentioned it to a few of their staff and they eventually added it in.
    • I did manage to do this without removing the engine or front cross member, but I had the advantage that the exhaust manifold was removed. I am not setup to support the engine from the top or remove it. 1. Loosen the engine mount nuts so they only have a nut of thread. If it is a manual, I think you have to remove the gearbox to engine support brackets. 2. Jack up the engine off the bottom idler mount. Jack it up till the end of the slot and nut on the mount. You need this clearance to get the pan out at the rear of the engine. 3.Break the sealant seal to sump. I found a oil pan separator tool helpful to get it started. 4. The oil pick up can be removed with the gap available.  5. The oil pan can be removed now. 6. Before assembling, do not apply sealant to the oil pick up area as your hand will rub it all off but apply to the other three and a bit sides. 7. It is a two man job to put the oil pan back, with the sealant, as you do not want it to touch anything and rub off. 8. With one person supporting the oil pan the other can fit the oil pickup 9. Apply the remaining sealant. This would be more difficult with the manifold or turbo in place, but I think it could be done. As you can see my sealant is a bit ugly, but good enough to seal. 10. Lift the sump up to the engine and bolt it on. We found it was easier to use two long guide bolts at each end to get it nice and aligned without touching.
    • I find building an exhaust a really satisfying job! Looks nice!   Did you consider using an oval pipe to get the same cross sectional area but keep it above the chassis rail?
    • @Dose Pipe Sutututu Sounds good.  Just double checking with the pull up resistor indicated in haltech's info sheet for their SSR - https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-030202-solid-state-relay-100-amp/  I'm guessing that would only be if the ECU did not have an internal pull up resistor? Their instructions are pretty strongly worded lol "1K pull-up resistor MUST be fitted." 
    • I wouldn't think you would need a flyback diode, as it's an OEM replacement parts for a fan controller/relay on a Dodge. Another tried and tested option are the Volvo XC90 (or similar) fan controllers.   
×
×
  • Create New...