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Rb25det Dyno Tune Went Wired. Can Any One Tell Me What Might Be Causing It.

hypergear

By hypergear,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

Ok. I just had a prick of a day trying to figure out what might've gone wrong with my 93 manual R33.

Modifications it got:

Z32 AFM

850cc high flowed injectors

FMIC

ATR43G3 turbo built by my self. (lol)

Full exhaust

EBC

Ok. The car was good ok after every thing's installed with a based map. The frist 2x runs were perfect and car managed a smooth 223rwkws at 10psi. Then it started to drop off and rumped back at full throttle. It kept on doing that for the rest of the day. Boost curve us early and straight, A/F is normal.

How ever It doesn't play up all the time on road. I'm wondering if any one had this issue before or know what this might be. Thanks.

Dynosheet attached:

atr43g3badrun.jpg

Boost cruve at 15psi:

atr43g3boost15psi.jpg

PS. I made a typo at the title. Its suppose to be Weird not wired.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)

could be a few things, its not the tuning. We just ran out of time and i could not diagnose it before we had to shut shop (prior arrangments) I reckon we will fit metal intake pipe and scope the crank angle sensor etc. Car has a history of electrical issues but hopefully Should be an easy fix.

Edited by URAS
STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
assuming you checked base timing? were the knock readings significantly lower where the power dropped?

knock is not an issue as all timing maps had retard removed.

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

yer but if the cas is the issue and the drop in power is from a lot less timing than whats in the map then knock levels will be lower throughout that range too. doesnt have to be pinging to produce knock numbers, with the stock sensors anyway

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
yer but if the cas is the issue and the drop in power is from a lot less timing than whats in the map then knock levels will be lower throughout that range too. doesnt have to be pinging to produce knock numbers, with the stock sensors anyway

its irrelevant either way. Im sure if we have more than 5mins to look at it we will have it sorted asap.

urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
Posted

it must be something simple and electrical, I have the same housings on my R34. sure mine isn't holding booste yet either. But that is purely due to me refitting the stock actuator and the second it hit the set booste pressure it would open but wasnt strong enough to pull it self shut again when using some decent revs. Once my 14psi actuator is fitted and tuned it should be an absolute animal.

i would highly suggest any 1 planning to do a highflow to go for the new 0.60 housing that Stao has made up. In it's current state the second the car hits 4.5kRPM in second gear it wants to light 235x18's (good tyres). it didn't feel like that with the OP6 highflow.

regards

Chris

geraus Mentor

geraus

Posted
Posted

Hey there, i had boost issues as well and i was just wondering, So if i changed my actuator... would my boost make a diffrence? because atm im running my greddy profec spec-B II and a stock actuator on hypergear highflow runing on 17.5 psi.

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That is a sheet to show where the problem is. I'm sourcing information to fixthe car issue, so I could know what parts I need to replace and make life easier for Trent and my self next week.

I should've never bought a cheap crappy looking car and trusted the previous owner that its mechanically A1. end up spending the heaps of $$$$ fixing bits and pieces, and now this f*ken engine is knocking.

Here's the 226rwkws 10psi tune based on the same turbo on a healthy R33 if you like to see.

atr28g3rb25232rwkw.JPG

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