S2 R33 Gtst Coilover Suggestions

[mark660]

hey everyone!

im pretty much ready to puchase some coilovers for my car, i have about 3k to spend, so what brand of coilovers should i go for? im after something thats is of good quality i cant stand cheap stuff!

the car is going to be mainy used for drifting and street driving so im not wanting somthing just for drifting still want good grip.

swaybars is there a certain size that is ideal for my car or is it to do with the style of driving im doing?

also should i be buying from a suspension shop in perth and fitting my self or buy off the net?

i have been looking at the tein mono flex coilovers what do u guys think of them and is there better options out there for the price?

any advice would be good cheers.

[_Ryan_]

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4882477

read it.

same budget, similar needs.

Bilstein/eibach over mono flex.

[krzysiu]

There is a company called BC which make really good coilivers for the price. They come out of the same factory as Greddy/Trust. My brother has the street ones in his car and they handle pretty damn well. If you go the drift coilovers it should be just under 2g for them.

[_Ryan_]

There is a company called BC which make really good coilivers for the price. They come out of the same factory as Greddy/Trust. My brother has the street ones in his car and they handle pretty damn well. If you go the drift coilovers it should be just under 2g for them.

Anyone ever put them on a shock dyno?

[08r3308]

[Sydneykid]

A couple of guys have asked me to comment on the dyno graphs, obviously this is rather complex and very subjective. Plus there are some details missing which would help, for example temperatures, ambient and shock body, plus the stroke used for the testing. I will keep it simple and brief, for a quick initial run through.

One of the most useful comparisons is pairs of shocks, it makes tuning the handling of a car very difficult if the shocks have different damping characteristics side to side. Starting at the last graph, #4;

1. Take a look at the rear shock rebound comparison, at 4 in/sec the right rear (RR) at setting R25 the rebound damping is around 600 lbs, while the left rear (LR) at 4 in/sec (LR) at setting R25 is around 500 lbs.

2. Now take a look at the rear shock compression (generally called bump) comparison, at 4 in/sec the right rear (RR) at setting C25 the compression damping is around 60 lbs, while the left rear (LR) at 4 in/sec (LR) at setting C25 is around 80 lbs.

That's fairly large difference +20% (600 - 500 = 100 / 500) in rebound damping side to side. But it is made more noticeable by the reverse difference, of -33% (80 - 60 = 20 / 60) in compression damping. This is a fairly easy fix, just set the damping on the RR shock rebound 2 or 3 points of adjustment lower than the LR. Then set the damping on the RR shock rebound 2 or 3 points of adjustment higher than the LR. I would confirm those compensation settings on the shock dyno before I went racing for the day and make sure that they are recorded in the car's set up log. Then before the next outing I would be looking at the shock internals to work out why there is such a difference and fix it before the next race meeting.

3. Having had a look at the rear shocks and hopefully gained some understanding from the above, let's have a look at graph #2. If you look closely you should be able to see a similar difference in the front pair. My guess is the shock dyno operator has noticed this difference and done some compensation testing. That's why there is testing done at R24 C27 on the FR shock. It looks to be an attempt at matching R25 C25 on the FL.

4. Lastly, looking at first graph, #1, some overall impressions. The rebound to compression damping ratio is over 4 to 1. That's usually a sign of the shock being designed to run with high spring rates. Since not a lot of compression damping is required as the spring is very firm and a quite a bit of rebound damping is required to control the big spring rates.

This transfers across to the damper adjustments, with a large range of adjustment on the rebound in comparison to the much smaller adjustment range on bump.

5. While we are on graph #1, take a look at the shape of the rebound curves, the lower adjustment 0 to 15 is convex while the higher damper rates 15 to 30 are concave. It is similarly reflected in the compression damping, although not as noticeable. This is actually the reverse of what I would prefer from my shocks, I would like to proportionally add more damping at higher shaft speeds. While leaving the lower shaft speeds with relatively less damping so that the tyres can more accurately follow the small deviations in the track surface.

That's about all I have time for right now, work beckons. Have a study of the graphs and see if you can identify what I am talking about above. If you can, then look for other things that might be of interest, keeping in mind the lack of the outside date such as spring and swaybar rates, tyres, track etc.

Cheers

Gary

[Sydneykid]

Any comments?

Cheers

Gary

[_Ryan_]

Thanks for that Gary.

It would appear it would be advisable to stick with a more consistent shock that does not require adjustment before every outing?

This is another good read: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html

Would I be correct in making the (risky) assumption that all of the lower end "coilovers" would perform in a similar nature? (Teins, Greddy, HKS, D2/G4/Ksport, HSD etc)

[mark660]

i ended up getting some bilstein coilovers made up buy a shop in perth am very happy with them.

[R31 POWER]

Any info and or pics?