Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Pads Cracked After 1 Track Day!


maxzugkraft
 Share

Recommended Posts

I ran about three track days with the stocker pads, and another half dozen or so with the stocker pads in the rear (running XP12's in the front) and i didnt have a problem. I still put the stocker pads back in if there is a rest between events. They are slightly cracked but that's ok. With other cars I've found most damage is done by running the car very hard/hot and then not cooling down sufficiently. I reckon a lot of damage is done by just coming in from a hard session and bringing the car to a rest far too soon. Depending on the track i usually drive out onto the street and drive up the road and back, at least a for a few minutes. Or else circulate in the pits for a while. I think it makes a difference and not only just for brakes.. Anyway i reckon the idea of replacing the rotors/pads with something aftermarket upfront a great idea regardless. $12500 for rotors and pads is bordering on criminal. It's not like you are getting anything better by paying 3x the price either, in fact, the stocker stuff is quite inferior and just a compromise (for the street). Jeez you could buy the Stillen Carbon brake system for about $20k aussie, hmmm...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Forgot to mention - Werribee in Melbourne.

Did a trackday at Sandown yesterday. Great track, great day and awesome car!!!

As a rookie, I did a 1min 24.1sec lap. Happy with that for now.

I do cool down the car by driving it around the carpark for a couple of minutes too, after a hard run.

Don't like the idea of the pads cooking on to the discs and also good for the turbos to cool down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

By fitting the Ferodo pads on, you will void your warranty. That would be such a waste of a 3 yr warranty on the brake pads, lines and rotors.

Nissan stipulates that if you change your pads you need to change your rotors too. Otherwise, bye-bye warranty.

Yeah but the only reason you'd fit aftermarket pads is if they don't come to party and fix it under warranty for free anyway so what value the warranty you forgo?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah but the only reason you'd fit aftermarket pads is if they don't come to party and fix it under warranty for free anyway so what value the warranty you forgo?

Yup, you would lose the warranty on the brakes system. Other parts of the car should still be covered if its not related to the effects of the mod on your brakes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like we talked about on Saturday - go with an aftermarket Japanese pad.

I have Ferodo DS2500s in my 32 and I don't like the pedal feel; and wouldn't use them again.

Let me know if you want to source some Endless or Project Mu.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like we talked about on Saturday - go with an aftermarket Japanese pad.

I have Ferodo DS2500s in my 32 and I don't like the pedal feel; and wouldn't use them again.

Let me know if you want to source some Endless or Project Mu.

Have you experienced these pads before?

Which is better in terms of:

Brake performance (resistance to fade),

Noise (if I use it for daily driving too),

Rotor wear?

How much do they cost for all four corners in the R35?

Thanks for the info.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The DS2500's perform next to identical to the factory pads. So if you want something similar i would go with them. Availability ig good also, you can get a set shipped to your door the next day. Btw a friend of mine just bought a set of MX72's for $800AU landed to his door (fronts AND rears) from the USA.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I would appreciate your thoughts on this guys.

I too went out recently to a track day at mallala.

Car just run in at 3000 ks,

did the pre and post track inspection

got a call from the nissan service manager, apparently the pads are showing signs of "heat soak"

recommend ...

yep changing the pads and the rotors ,

and yeah im up for 12 grand

I was adament that this is unacceptable , given the car is barely run in, is marketed as a everyday supercar and has new rotors. I have followed all nissans running in procedures and certainly cooled the car appropriately with a couple of cool down laps

He agrees but his hands are tied?

nissan refuse to change brake pads only,

service elsewhere voids my warranty

i said what warranty, brakes are not covered

whats the point?

Your f*ed either way

any thoughts?

ive read the other threads and am aware of the issues other guys had, so its no surprise, still its no easier

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would appreciate your thoughts on this guys.

I too went out recently to a track day at mallala.

Car just run in at 3000 ks,

did the pre and post track inspection

got a call from the nissan service manager, apparently the pads are showing signs of "heat soak"

recommend ...

yep changing the pads and the rotors ,

and yeah im up for 12 grand

I was adament that this is unacceptable , given the car is barely run in, is marketed as a everyday supercar and has new rotors. I have followed all nissans running in procedures and certainly cooled the car appropriately with a couple of cool down laps

He agrees but his hands are tied?

nissan refuse to change brake pads only,

service elsewhere voids my warranty

i said what warranty, brakes are not covered

whats the point?

Your f*ed either way

any thoughts?

ive read the other threads and am aware of the issues other guys had, so its no surprise, still its no easier

Really sorry to hear R35 owners are being treated like this. This is the third such case i have heard about like this. It is totally unacceptable. $12k is just insane. And i thought $8k was excessive.... For god sakes DO NOT FALL FOR IT. It's BS, regardless if the Nissan tech believes it or not.

Just buy some aftermarket pads. If you want something close to stock, get some Ferodo DS2500's for about $800 a set, or about $450 for fronts. A few hundred more can get you track focused pads. Any mechanic can change them, it will take them about half an hour. If you want to talk about it, send me a PM. They can't see them voiding your drivetrain warranty if you use aftermarket pads. Don't do it man, dont pay $12k for this, it's a SCAM.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

get some AP Slotted rotors for about $850 each and then some ferodos or better endless MX72.

all up about $2500.

Way better than stock and Nissan cant void anything on you - the dealers have no idea, they just follow Nissan australia's rules... Having said that Brookvale guys are awesome at least they think outside the square...

Stock rotors are rubish for track work anyway. Good for the street but they dont cool down after track use. They dont have a curved vane cooling system so they just heat soak if you stop after driving etc.

Thats why your pads are stuffed and your rotors will crack after another track day or two.

PM me if you want to chat about this in more detail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Really sorry to hear R35 owners are being treated like this. This is the third such case i have heard about like this. It is totally unacceptable. $12k is just insane. And i thought $8k was excessive.... For god sakes DO NOT FALL FOR IT. It's BS, regardless if the Nissan tech believes it or not.

Just buy some aftermarket pads. If you want something close to stock, get some Ferodo DS2500's for about $800 a set, or about $450 for fronts. A few hundred more can get you track focused pads. Any mechanic can change them, it will take them about half an hour. If you want to talk about it, send me a PM. They can't see them voiding your drivetrain warranty if you use aftermarket pads. Don't do it man, dont pay $12k for this, it's a SCAM.

I've got set of Endless - MX-72 F+R for A$810 delivered from Driveline Motoring in US.

http://drivelinestore.com/contact-us

And you can get set of AP rotors from Vsport for about $830 per corner.

I have set of OEM rotors with only 4000 km for sale if any one is interested.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The issue of brakes and tracked GTRs is an important one. Most of the cracking occurs when the brake pad literally 'pulls apart' the overheated disc under brake application. The key is to keep the temperatures under control. We have been working on a solution to this problem for some time. Regardless it doesnt matter how well you cool your brakes after the fact, the damage occurs during the application and at that point temperature needs to be managed ;)

Edited by Martin Donnon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wonder if NISSAN will contact you in a hurry hush-hush if you advertise in 'The Age' that you are about to blast the cracked pads with a shotgun on dd/mm/yyyy?

This procedure seemed to work in the USA when a man was exasperated with his DELL.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the cracked pads, just replaced them with Ferodo DS2500's. They feel very much like stock. V-Sport supplied these for me and I had them fitted for $66.00. All up about $520 fitted for new front pads.

The service manager at my dealership siad that on the record he has to tell me that pads and rotors need to be replaced, however off the record, go out and get some good aftermarket pads as there was absolutely nothing wrong with my discs.

I can feel another letter to wheels magazine coming on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the cracked pads, just replaced them with Ferodo DS2500's. They feel very much like stock. V-Sport supplied these for me and I had them fitted for $66.00. All up about $520 fitted for new front pads.

The service manager at my dealership siad that on the record he has to tell me that pads and rotors need to be replaced, however off the record, go out and get some good aftermarket pads as there was absolutely nothing wrong with my discs.

I can feel another letter to wheels magazine coming on.

I've written a letter about this injustice, to the dealer who was going to forward it to "higher powers" in Nissan.

But - no reply yet!

Good to have your feedback.

I am thinking of getting Project Mu - B force or HS pads.

Anyone with any experience with these on road and on track?

Also when the rotors go, Alcons might be better - they are much lighter than stock or AP Racing.

Again ... anyone with these? Where to get them?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys for your input,

no doubt this is partly a money making scam from nissan probably to recoup some of that money for the price they sell their "cut price supercar"

whilst i have considered long and hard to go to nissan australia and kick up a fuss i am almost certain there is not point.

I think as most of you guys have suggested the best option is to go aftermarket which is what i will do with aftermarket pads

thanks again guys :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
    • Is the RB26 actually that far off the mark? Honestly from where I'm sitting a VR38DETT is not actually that much more advanced than the RB26. Yes, there is a scavenge pump on the VR38, it's smarter in a number of ways but it's not actually jumping out to me as alien technology. Something like a B58 or V35A-FTS on the other hand has so many surprising little design features that add up to be something that just isn't comparable. 
    • https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2021-nissan-skyline-400r-auto-rv37/SSE-AD-17857548/ Well there you go 
    • Chris won't reply. He doesn't visit the forum much anymore. You can try these guys https://www.facebook.com/autotainment/ They did mine many years ago
×
×
  • Create New...