Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi im new to the site. ive got a white/silver 97 model which i believe is a s1. i have hit a bloody kangaroo and need a new front passenger quarter panel and headlight. i might also be interested in a front bumper for the right price.

post-59570-1255691863_thumb.jpg

post-59570-1255691871_thumb.jpg

post-59570-1255691918_thumb.jpg

im in Emerald Qld which is in the middle of nowhere so i will need to freight it no matter where it comes from. how much would it cost for the parts. i can organize freight myself.what about the front spoiler as well.

Sorry mate, I just checked the quarter panel and it's got some damage.

Unfortunately I don't have the parking light but I can do the headlight for $70.00 posted.

Edited by RSFour

im interested in the headlight i am just waiting to hear back from someone else. how much damage is there to the panel. is it worth trying to salvage?

It's dented at the front, similar damage to yours actually. To be honest it's probably not worth the hassle of postage, I think you'd be better of getting yours repaired.

Edited by RSFour

ive ordered a headelight from rs four and am trying to repair the panel so as of now all im chasic is the passenger park light

post-59570-1256273848.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...