Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

"Yes is used search tab - Sorry if someone else can find it though cause i did look in over 5 post's"

ok here is the deal.

i was going to get the Sard 550cc but i thought ide go get 850cc so i know i have the room to upgrade if needed,

im aiming for around 230rwkw - 260rwkw for now. But next year ide probably try and go further.

so the question is, If im running around 230 - 240rwkw and i have 850cc injectors is there any difference to if i was using the 550cc?

and if i upgrade my stock rb25det injectors to the sard 850cc are they a straight fit e.g. plugs, how they sit/fit.

do i need to buy something else for the injectors to fit?

do rb25det injectors sell for anything?

cause ill be getting rid of the stock injectors/turbo/manifold and any other stuff that comes with the rb25det i wont need.

Oh and i thought i guess ill add this question in here aswell,

What clutch should i get for around that power. i have a Exedy Hd Sports Tuff at the moment thats been in my N/a r33 for 1.5 years

i was thinking of leaving it in and seeing how it would stand... i like the feeling of this clutch its a bit heavy and i can ride it if needed.

Any cheapish clutch suggestions OR If this clutch does go would a brand new exedy Hd sports tuff do that job?

"Sorry for this long post :< its just im putting my engine/mods in the car this monday hopefully"

Thanks

Edited by Stealthynsa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292381-getting-injectors-what-size/
Share on other sites

The general rule on injector size is 550cc is good for around 550rwhp max, so 550's should be good for around 350rwkw safely, if you buy injectors made for an rb25 they should be a straight bolt in, if you just pick up a cheap set from something else then you will have to change plugs and other things to make them fit, another for you is high flow injectors from deutch works, there is a thread some where about them, or S15 injectors, can usually get them in a set of 6 for around $350-$400 and they are 440cc, add an adjustable fpr and they would be good for around 500cc maybe a little more.

As for clutch i have a heavy duty exedy with 210rwkw and never had a problem, might be different for you if there is a difference between the N/A clutch and a turbo clutch.

worp is pretty much right in that case . they stoped sellin n/a clutches because they were utter shit ill let you know about the heavy duty becuase i have one in the rb30det ill let you know what it will get to before it starts slipping . rule of the injectors duty cycle is 90 percent. a fpr will be a good investment too. have you done the pump ? if not try the walbro like peas in a pod =) let us know how you go

worp is pretty much right in that case . they stoped sellin n/a clutches because they were utter shit ill let you know about the heavy duty becuase i have one in the rb30det ill let you know what it will get to before it starts slipping . rule of the injectors duty cycle is 90 percent. a fpr will be a good investment too. have you done the pump ? if not try the walbro like peas in a pod =) let us know how you go

Here is my list of things going in on monday:

Rb25det engine + loom

Apexi Pfc w/Hc

Turbosmart Dual Boost Controller

JustJap FMIC

Sard FPR

Bosch 040 Fuel pump

Z32 AFM w/Adapter

3" stainless Turbo back exhaust system "xforce"

Exedy Hd sports tuff Clutch

Sard 550cc Or 850cc injectors

Pod air filter

Nissan RB front housing with Garret GT30 front wheel and Ar63 rear Ball bearing turbo "Turbo bought from mate he said its around 500hp turbo?"

So i was thinking/hoping this setup would see me around 240rwkw, i hope for more but atleast 240rwkw.

front everyone else's view, "What do u think my car will be pushing on the dyno?"

But for the original question 850cc injectors would be no different then 550cc if i just get them?!?!?! cause why not go bigger if its like $20 difference?!?!?!

as i will like to push my car alot further in time to come!

Edited by Stealthynsa
The general rule on injector size is 550cc is good for around 550rwhp max, so 550's should be good for around 350rwkw safely, if you buy injectors made for an rb25 they should be a straight bolt in, if you just pick up a cheap set from something else then you will have to change plugs and other things to make them fit, another for you is high flow injectors from deutch works, there is a thread some where about them, or S15 injectors, can usually get them in a set of 6 for around $350-$400 and they are 440cc, add an adjustable fpr and they would be good for around 500cc maybe a little more.

As for clutch i have a heavy duty exedy with 210rwkw and never had a problem, might be different for you if there is a difference between the N/A clutch and a turbo clutch.

wow these deatschwerks injectors are only $479 for 550cc injectors, i was gonna pay $750 for sard 550cc...

Does anyone rate these injectors? cause ide hate to buy the cheap ones and find out they might block up, flow different, or something go wrong.

and u think these deatschwerks 550cc injectors should see me to 350rwkw comfortably?

it seems that everyone with a rb25 and wants to upgrade there injectors use these over here in the states. if your going to use something like a meth/alcohol shot then you may need the 850's

Don't use a adj. FPR when you've got big injectors going in, it's pointless.

Only downside to using 850cc injectors vs 550cc, the 850cc injectors will make it harder to get the idle right, but a good tuner will compensate. This is where you need to contact your tuner for advise on whether to go with the 550cc or 850cc Sard injectors.

I'd be more worried about getting side feed injectors that are high impedance and physically fit the fuel rail. The Sard injectors come with collars and will be pretty much bolton, whereas the "deutschewerks 550cc" injectors probably don't come with collars and have the wrong plugs etc.

and also i see in the Rb25 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results forum,

most rb25det setups run Nismo 555cc injectors why is this?

if u just go with sard 550cc injectors is this just as good of a job as the nismo ones?

and if not can u explain why the nismo is better then sard and how u rate sard injectors.

Nismo or Tomei (same thing) have a better spray pattern than sard and don't require collars so it's worth the extra. 555's would be the go.

Agreed - main issue is the collars.

Sard = not direct fit.

Nismo = direct

Easier :D

Nismo 555's or 740's are all you will ever need and will get you to 400rwkw.

850cc's are too big unless you are after some serious big dollar power.

Agreed - main issue is the collars.

Sard = not direct fit.

Nismo = direct

Easier :D

Nismo 555's or 740's are all you will ever need and will get you to 400rwkw.

850cc's are too big unless you are after some serious big dollar power.

yeah i was just checking out the nismo injectors and i thought why not, i "was" gonna pay $1299 for 550cc sard @ justjap / then found them for $750 "was getting them tomorrow"

but now im gonna get the nismo injectors u guys convinced me and im glad, i found them on sliding performance website.

6 x NISMO 555cc Injectors Nissan RB25DET $859.00 Delivered

6 x NISMO 740cc Injectors Nissan RB25DET $869.00 Delivered

so now my last question to ask about injectors is which 1 of these 2 should i get lol?

im getting the boys over @ UAS seven hills to tune my car and PFC as im only 3 minutes from there workshop.

someone said the only difference in the 2 is its harder to tune the cars idle?!?! ( and obviously the bigger they are the more they can put through ) Any others?

my mods are up there and i will probably be forging internals and turbo upgrade in years to come.

You've gotta decide how much power you want in the future.

330rwkw or so, 555's will do no drama at all. Plus 300-330rwkw is only just driveable in RWD, much more is useless so i'd be capping the power aim's there personally.

That is another 60-70rwkw on what your current aim is, so at a wild guess they would be enough.

You've gotta decide how much power you want in the future.

330rwkw or so, 555's will do no drama at all. Plus 300-330rwkw is only just driveable in RWD, much more is useless so i'd be capping the power aim's there personally.

That is another 60-70rwkw on what your current aim is, so at a wild guess they would be enough.

i found this in the dyno page:

R33 series 2 GTS25t (Standard Internals)

Garrett GT30R (0.63 exhaust housing) (real gt30r - 6 blade, fluted inlet)

Tial 38mm external wastegate

Stock Manifold, w/ spacer

Nismo 740cc injectors

Walbro Fuel Pump

Sard FPR

Hybrid Monster FMIC

Greddy Profec B Spec II EBC

Apexi Power FC

Standard Ignition Coils

Z32 AFM

K&N air filter

3.5" turbo back exhaust w/hi flow cat

274.1 kW @ 16psi

Full boost at 3800rpm.

Initially tuned by Ken @ Incar Motorsports, then finely tuned by Ben @ UAS (he rocks).

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

and i thought hey i have basically everything there except for the external wastegate, and i dont think ide need that would i?

so i could prob meet that same power rating im guessing,

basically ide have my turbo set to low for everyday driving and how ever much psi he can tweak the turbo and engine to whilest being safe without damaging anything for the high boost setting.

so right now i have a exedy heavyduty sports tuff clutch and i thought yeah stuffit ill just put that back in since my mate has 206kw at all 4 wheels on his rexy with the same clutch.

but now im thinking it might give way, i enjoy driving in this clutch cause i can ride it if needed and its a bit heavy so i can feel the clutch at my feet,

could u guys now post up what clutch would support the 300rwkw range, that isnt to annoying to drive but can take a beating when needed.

"that isnt to pricey if possible BUT if i need to spend for it i guess ide drive the car with the exedy on low boost untill i could afford it then pull the box out again"

Edited by Stealthynsa

ur lucky you asked these questions before buying. i was using a workshop who convinced me to buy 850cc power enterprise. way too big for the 400hp im chasing and now i want to offload them but will not get what i paid for. spewing.

just go the 550cc. and when the time does come for the need for bigger ones get them then. chances are its not going to be within a year or two that you will need the bigger ones. well thats the case with me anyway.

6 x NISMO 555cc Injectors Nissan RB25DET $859.00 Delivered

6 x NISMO 740cc Injectors Nissan RB25DET $869.00 Delivered

I just went the 740cc. Price difference is nothing and will not need to change them when i go higher than 300rwkw

I just went the 740cc. Price difference is nothing and will not need to change them when i go higher than 300rwkw

yeah i asked Ben at UAS and he said just get the 740cc cause he can tune them np so i have ordered them...

will be putting the car in on saturday or monday HOPEFULLY to get tuned.

so i have everything i need BUT new rear tyres, and a new clutch but ben said the heavy duty exedy should last on it for now.

and my engine arrives here tomorrow so im just praying that they dont stuff up the order and forget something essential for the rb gts to gtst transplant.

and ill be putting all the mods and engine in over the upcoming nights. "who needs sleep :cool:"

when i get my tune ill post up the pwr rating.

thanks for everyone opinions and help over my last few post's

Cheers, Nigel

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When's the rear mounted turbo kit coming? Needs dose and V8 chop idle lol.
    • I was very unimpressed with how the car came up from the A pillar forward, before I hit things (twice). It all has to go. It had to go, but now it has to go... more. So we finally found the very first Shennanigans with the entirely perfectly setup engine that had no problems being pulled apart to improve on 'was perfectly fine'. Cam bearings looked a bit... stock. Which isn't entirely bad given they were stock and this is a ~20 year old engine. So new cam bearings are on the way because it's somewhat difficult to get to this stage to do it later, and it will trash the block. It was quite unusual that it wasn't done when the perfectly new-looking VCM cam was originally installed by [unknown] What IS unusual is the cam that was installed there was advanced SIX degrees. As to why there is no way to know.. however it could have been @Dose Pipe Sutututu's mate who wanted a larger cam sound but also wanted it to come on earlier to be more usable. This is my dyno sheet with the previous setup - This cam is not supposed to peak until 7000+ RPM, according to VCM. This is what lead me down the whole 'my heads/intake setup is running out of puff and can't support the cam' line of thinking to begin with. Anyway too late now - New cam is in! It could be rather funny if this smaller cam acts like a larger cam because it isn't advanced six degrees. In the spirit of everything is working amazingly - the COMP cam required no dialling in whatsoever. It was about 0.5 degrees advanced, which seems pretty bang on. Any adjustment either way would be further out. I'm told as a chain breaks in it ends up regarding back about 0.5 a degree as the chain breaks in, making it bang on. In the spirit of everything was previously working amazingly - The timing gear that was taken out turned out to be was an N-Motion double timing chain kit, with adjustable cam gear (which is how it was 6 degrees advanced) and all looks entirely perfectly new. It also had a Torrington bearing, which was one of the reasons I ended up getting the Cloyes kit which they used in the C5R 24 hour racecar - Because I couldn't confirm what was in the engine when talking to Tony Mamo. I did believe however it was a Double chain kit of some kind... but found no supporting documentation or evidence for it.
    • I recently did this to my R33 with the full set from Car Mats Direct, they can't do the vinyl anymore that's advertised on the website due to a supplier issue so I ended up with the Black Loop Pile which looks great. I went all out with rubber sound deadening sheets from Repco and also added the sound deadening foam layer option with the carpet. Makes a world of difference and got rid of all the weird smells in the 29 year old interior. It was a bit of work but I'd 100% recommend it, Car Mats Direct had awesome customer service and quick postage. Replaced my seats with some sporty ones from Autotechnia while I was at it, feels like a new car.
    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
×
×
  • Create New...