Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, my car makes a metallic clunking noise when taking off or braking however it seems to only do this on hot days! It started making the noise last summer but went away as the weather cooled down. I've had no problems all through winter but it just started making the noise again.

Does anyone know what might be causing it? The noise is coming from the front of the car. Ive got relatively new springs and shocks on my car so I dont think they're the cause. Could it be some old rubber bushes or mounts that are on their way out??

Any help would be much appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292389-metallic-clunking-noise-on-hot-days/
Share on other sites

Yeah I've got the same problem, same car. Started happening last summer as well and only noticed it again last weekend when the weather got freakishly hot in Perth! I've spoken to a mate of mine who's a mechanic, he reckons that some of the bushes might just need a bit of lubrication or replacing. What ever my cause is, it's definitely not the wheel nuts.

Edited by MacGuyver

does it only do it when the car has been driven or will it do it from the moment you start the car and take off for the first time?

the rubber mounts does sound likely as in summer they would be softer and allow more movement. as to which mounts if could be, now that is the problem. could be anything from exhaust mounts, to suspension, gearbox, engine, etc. i'd start by jacking the car up and going over the easy ones to get to with a spanner/socket set.

Iv got a similar if not the same problem. iv got a 96 S2 R33. the front right of the car makes a clunking or a creeking noise. it happens as soon as i take of slowly, as the front of the car rises it makes the noise, also as im braking and coming to a stop i can hear it. Also lol, as i turn the steering wheel, when driving slowly it makes a click sometimes, not all the time though its weird

Any ideas??

most common noise u describe is driveshaft splines noisy, wheels without centre spacers or aftermarket spacers not centred and tightened evenly,

or diff, copper grease in splines

I have stock wheels so I dont think its spacers in my case. The noise on mine seems to come from the front passenger side

Hi Guys

Got the same problem as described by the other guys, i thought it was the suspension, but i have recently got coil overs and same thing is happening.

i still have a fair bit of pad left on the fronts, it gets pretty bad, not sure if it is doing any damage or not.

anyone with any fixes yet?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh man what a deal.... Funny enough (well not really) I sold a car to some old dude (buying for his Daughter) on a Saturday, He asked if she could take the car now and pay me the money on Monday as the bank wasn't open. Needless to say I told them to come back with the cash or get f**ked! Luckily the money seemed to magically appear in his pocket a few minutes later, so it all ended well (for me).
    • Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
    • All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?
×
×
  • Create New...