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Rocker Cover Gasket Replacement


WhitePrincess

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  • 3 months later...

Hey, I got my gaskets today but was under the impression they would come with the 'half moons' aswell. Was I supposed to separately order them? You didn't provide a part number so I just assumed it came with the new ones. I have some decent gasket sealer, would you recommend using this on the existing half moon things?

Thanks.

Edited by -Jimmy-
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  • 2 weeks later...
Hey, I got my gaskets today but was under the impression they would come with the 'half moons' aswell. Was I supposed to separately order them? You didn't provide a part number so I just assumed it came with the new ones. I have some decent gasket sealer, would you recommend using this on the existing half moon things?

Thanks.

searching on an old thread about this, part # for those cam seals is 11051-58S00

see: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ch...l&hl=rocker (images are all broken)

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run a thin line of silicone gasket maker (blue/grey or black stuff, same as you would use for the sump) under the half moons before you install them.

the rest of the cam cover gaskets do not require sealant.

they do require rubber bushes on each screw/bolt in good condition (replace them! or just use 3mm slices of fuel hose like we did in the race car).

most important...do not over-tighten the cam cover bolts...they are meant to be 15-20nm only!!!

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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys,

I also want to replace the rocket cover seals,

as well and paint the covers at the same time :laugh:

Was ready further bak in the thread that the seals are the same for rb20, rb25, an rb26 if this is true dose this mean i can put rb26 rocket covers and rb26 cam covers on at the same time if i can get a hold of sum..??

Cheerz..

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  • 8 months later...

Our drift pig is leaking like a b!tch out of the rocker covers and would love to replace them.

Just one question - What the fcuk is this half moon seal you are talking about?!!? Can you point it out to me! Would be greatly appreciated!

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I just checked again and he said "Sorry no pics included" of the half moons. Is it actually on the back of the head (accessible easily/easy to change?). If so, once i order the parts i'm sure i can figure out which they are lol.

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run a thin line of silicone gasket maker (blue/grey or black stuff, same as you would use for the sump) under the half moons before you install them.

the rest of the cam cover gaskets do not require sealant.

they do require rubber bushes on each screw/bolt in good condition (replace them! or just use 3mm slices of fuel hose like we did in the race car).

most important...do not over-tighten the cam cover bolts...they are meant to be 15-20nm only!!!

Well i never seen this thread when i did mine and not wanting to splurge on new gaskets when I did it I used a thin line of sealant (grey stuff from memory) all way around, prolly no need hey, im not even sure they old ones were no good i just did it thinking better safe than sorry :ermm: and now you also have me worried I have overtightened them as well, why is it so important not to overtighten.

Im a pretty bodgey backyard mech at times,

( Although I just invested 25$ in a torque wrench thats about as technological as my toolbox gets), but i dont usually over tighten things just tighten till it stops turning freely then give it a nip. WHile im at it should ex manifold and turbo bolts be torqued or just tighten ?

Cause I just gave them an extra hard nip ... :D

Edited by Arthur T3
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well....generally....every bolt with a given strength has a proper torque that it should be tightened to. overtightening is very dangerous because it will stretch the bolt/stud further that it is designed for, causing it to weaken or break. This is very important....overtorqued bolts/studs break all the time, in particular wheel studs. The engineers who decide the right torque have done a heap of testing before deciding on the safe maxiumium torque.

Through the magic of mspaint....

bolt_torque.jpg

A is elastic phase. while you are here the bolt will basically be fine, forever, over and over. it bounces back.

B is the yeild point. past here you damage that bolt forever

C is the plastic phase....it is changing shape (stretching) forever but has not broken

D you have stuffed it....it just snapped.

The target torque for a faster is normally about 75% of it's yield point (keeps 25% safety margin). An M6 bolt like the cam cover bolts is only 20nm. ie quite light when done by hand.

But.....these are rubber seals and not metal on metal like most bolts. Here they are trying to make sure you don't squash the rubber too far and deform it. so the correct torque is even lighter still. You will see the rubber washers bulge a little, but not be squashed, at the right torque

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  • 4 months later...

Great tutorial.

Did this today, took me 2.5hrs working pretty slow. But no leaks so WOOHOO!!

Just a little note though limber up for sure. I think i almost tore a hammy!

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Just wana say thank you for this thread, my liner was diagnosed with a leak from rocker cover when its 100,000k service was done in march 08!!! I saw this yesterday and went and bought the kit from bursons and spent the arvo doing and and painting parts at the same time (also replaced intake pipe while it was accessible)

Looking forward to a clean garage floor!!

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